We
had hiked on General Crook Trail from Hwy 169 and Little Hackberry
Wash (6.9 miles west of I-17) to the junction of Forest road 9604F
and Hwy 169 (1.8 miles west of I-17) last March. During that hike we
had noted what appeared to be Indian ruins located among igneous
outcroppings on top of a small round hill east of Gray Wolf Landfill.
We could not be entirely sure that what we had seen were really
ruins. Today, 28 December 2013, on our last hike of the year, we
were returning to climb the hill and investigate.
We
drove to Camp Verde on Hwy 260, took I-17 south to Hwy 169, turned
west on that road and traveled about 1.8 miles to Forest Road 9604F.
Turning south on the forest road, we drove about 0.3 miles to the
point where it intersects General Crook Trail. We actually turned on
a faint track just about 0.1 mile before reaching the trail and
parked a little over 100 yards from the trail. General Crook Trail
#64 is marked at this point by a standard upright trail sign
displaying the trail number.
The
trail is relatively easy to follow. The track of the original
General Crook Trail is still visible and cairns, although often
obscured by grass, have been erected along the way. The original
trail, a wagon road, was scouted in 1871 by General Crook,
construction began in 1872, supplies could be moved over it by pack
trail in 1873, and in 1874 the first wagon train left Fort Whipple
for Fort Apache.1
When
we started our hike, we were on the crest of the east slope of
Johnson Wash. We followed Crook Trail down the slope of the wash,
crossed over and continued for a short distance up the west slope,
before turning to climb up to the ruins which could barely be
discerned from our location. At the point where we turned off the
trail we noted a single square, weathered post with no markings
placed on the beside the old wagon trail. The climb to the top of
the hill was along a gentle slope that rose some 275 feet in 0.3
miles.
We were not absolutely
sure that the ruins even existed until we were close enough to see
the man-made walls, with view-ports placed in strategic locations.
Lila Wright is shown below ascending the wall.
Lila Wright ascending the north wall of Gray Wolf Ruins
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I
did not find an official name for these ruins, so I have chosen to
refer to them as Gray Wolf Ruins, the name given to General Crook by
the Indians and also the name of the nearby landfill.
The
photograph shown here (right) shows
a section of the north wall looking east from where we ascended.
From
our perch among the ruins, we had a commanding view in every
direction across the surrounding low-lying hills to the far mountains
beyond.
Looking to the east from the ruins
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The
entire top of the hill had been fortified by strategically building
walls to connect already existing igneous outcroppings. Since the
connecting rock walls were were of the same composition as the
outcropping rocks, the fortifications could easily go unnoticed from
below.
Fortifications enclosing the entire top of the hill
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We found a suitable
spot at the very top of the hill and posed for a group photograph.
Left to right: The author (front), Betty Wolters, Collene Maktenieks,
Daisy Williams (standing),
Connie Woolard, Lila Wright (standing),
Kwi Johnson and Gary Jacobson
– photograph by Name Withheld
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Leaving
the ruins, we retraced our steps down the hill, rejoined Crook Trail
at the bottom and climbed back up the eastern slope of Johnson Wash
to our parked vehicles.
Hiking back up the east slope of Johnson Wash. The trace of the old Crook
Wagon Trail runs just to
the right of the hikers, topping out just above the
leftmost hiker.
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The red track in the
below map shows our path to the Gray Wolf Indian Ruins. The green
track shows a short section of the Crook Trail as it detours around
private property, the Gray Wolf Landfill.
Map showing the trail to Gray Wolf Ruins and the Crook Trail detour around
Gray Wolf Landfill
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The
short distance to and from the ruins was never going to be an
adequate hike, so we climbed back into our vehicles and drove another
5.1 miles west on Hwy 169 to the point where Crook Trail crosses the
highway and heads to Hecla (perhaps more commonly referred to as Ash
Creek Station). The station was originally built by John Stemmer, a
cavalryman stationed at Camp Verde, who mustered out in 1870. The
station had an inn with seven rooms. In the early 1890, according to
a July 23, 2008 article published in the Camp Verde Bugle,
“the neighborhood became an official community with a real post
office, named Hecla after a nearby gold mine.” The article goes on
to say that the post office only operated for about a year.2
The
start of the trail to Hecla was clearly marked (left)
and there is plenty of parking alongside the highway.
As
can be seen in the photograph at left, the trail was wide and had a
smooth surface. Although the gravel surface seen here only lasted a
few yards where it ended at a corral, the entire trail was still easy
hiking. About 0.7 miles from Hwy 169, Crook Trail makes a turn and
heads in a more westerly direction. Because the path straight ahead
is wider and more distinct at this point it would be easy to miss the
turn.
There is a trail marker (right);
however, it is one of those whose directional arrows can be
interpreted incorrectly. For guidance, just look for the two rock
cairns beside the shrub just to the right of the sign. They are
aligned to take you in the right direction.
From
the turn described above, the trail becomes a little narrower and in
places follows along washes. But it is still easy hiking with a
relatively smooth dirt and sand surface and well-placed cairns to
show the way. The distance from the turn to Hecla is only another
0.7 miles and we were soon there. On arrival, after crossing the
creek, we were greeted by a beautiful, gnarled old hackberry tree
standing sentinel on the west side of the creek.
Beautiful old hackberry tree at Hecla
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We
continued past the remains of the old stone corral and stopped
alongside the creek to eat lunch.
Still standing wall of old stone corral at Hecla
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We
had now completed all of Trail # 64 except the 0.6 mile section that
continues on past Hecla to end at FR 323, so we decided to continue
on and complete that section. The red track in the below map shows
Trail 64 from Hwy 169 to its end (or start) at FR 323. The blue
track shows an alternate route we took on the return trip
Map showing Crook Trail #64 from Hwy 169 to Hecla and on to Forest Road 323
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We
hiked 6.3 miles (2 miles to the Indian Ruins and 4.3 miles to Hecla
and on to FR 323). All distances are round trip. Our highest
elevation was 4736 feet and the elevation difference was 416 feet.
1General
Crook National Historic Trail Study Report, USFS, 1986 (Draft), p.
384
2
http://campverdebugleonline.com/print.asp?ArticleID=20599&SectionID=74&SubSectionID=702
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