The
date was 2 July 2014 and this would be my third trip to Jeronimo's
Cabin. The previous two hikes had both been close to six years ago.
I had not written much in the way of reports for those two hikes,
basically just directions for repeating them; one major objective of
this hike was to produce a more comprehensive report. In particular
I wanted to better describe the cabin remains, make a more accurate
track of the “burro trail,” an alternate route to the cabin that
I think was utilized by Jeronimo for hauling materials in and out
with his burros, and revisit the site of the, now dry, spring that
supplied water for the old woodcutter and his burros.
Leaving
Cottonwood at 0700, we drove past Jerome on Hwy 89A to the top of the
mountain and turned left on Forest Road 104. After traveling about
1.37 miles on FR 104, passing the Butterfly Spring Trailhead at the
hairpin turn along the way, we turned right on FR 413 and followed it
for about 2.55 miles, passing the turnoff to Cherry on the right and
Burnt Tank on the left. Just after passing the tank we turned to the
left on Forest Road 9003T into a camping area and parked about 100
feet from the road.
FR
9003T ends at a locked gate about 0.4 miles from FR 413. The gate,
intended only to stop motorized traffic, is configured to allow
passage for foot traffic and livestock (right).
One simply walks through the opening between the post and the tree
and then returns to the old roadbed. This photograph, along with all
others except the group photograph, was taken in 2008.
The
trail continues across the wash which is, by the way, a part of the
Burnt Canyon watershed. As a matter of fact this entire hike is
actually within the upper reaches of Burnt Canyon. Three major
canyons run parallel from northwest to southeast along this slope of
Mingus. As noted we are in Burnt Canyon. Gaddes Canyon is located
across the ridge to the northeast and Black Canyon, positioned
between Burnt and Gaddes, starts a little further down the slope.
Meanwhile, to the northwest Little Yaeger Canyon and Yaeger Canyon,
with Haywood Canyon feeding in from above, run from the northeast to
the southwest.
Wild
turkeys are often seen along the upper reaches of Burnt Canyon. I
have seen flocks in a small grassy area just beyond the gate we
passed through and also a little further to the southeast where FR
413 makes its way across the low ridge dividing Burnt Canyon from
Black Canyon. But there were none to be seen today.
Jeronimo's
Cabin is actually located in a side branch of Burnt Canyon and we
crossed a wash flowing down it before turning to follow along its
bank, at first following another old road. Soon, however, the old
road disappeared and we were following a well-defined trail, traveled
by cattle as well as the occasional hiker.
Approximately
0.2 miles after turning to follow the wash toward the cabin, where
our trail passed along the very edge of the wash, we noted a section
of steel cable anchored firmly to the ground (left).
Directly across the wash is located the end of an ancient road,
running up from below. Looking at this anchored wire cable in
isolation, it was not immediately obvious what its purpose might have
been.
About
another 0.3 miles further up the wash we caught our first site of
Jeronimo's Cabin.
Jeronimo's Cabin - August 2008 |
The
cabin is constructed with a rock fireplace which has a metal chimney
pipe enclosed within a rock casing. On entering the door, one finds
the fireplace (left) straight ahead
with a living, cooking and dining area in front of and to the left of
the fireplace.
On
the right is a smaller space that was apparently used as a sleeping
area. The upper side of the structure consists of a rock wall hard
against a bank that seems to have been excavated for that side of the
house. The roof comes almost to the ground along this upper side of
the cabin. The rest of the structure was built using upright timbers
and rock, basically rock near the upper side and timbers nearer and
along the lower side. The back wall of the relatively large stone
fireplace actually formed a significant part of one wall. There are
large cracks showing between the upright timbers and the door has,
since a visit I made in 2008, been ripped off and partly destroyed.
In
2008 an informational poster was posted on the inside of the door. I
am told that the door was intact and that the poster was still there
in May 2014. Obviously, vandals have struck since then. The poster
as shown below in a 2008 photograph included the following
information along with reproductions of old photographs of Jeronimo
Pena and his burros.
Poster at Jeronimo's Cabin – August 2008 |
The
wording on the poster, not very legible in the above photograph,
reads as follows:
As the population (of Jerome)
grew, so did the demand for firewood. Woodcutters were forced to
travel further up into the mountains as supplies diminished.
Jeronimo Pena began cutting firewood on Mingus Mountain about
1920. Throughout his life he shunned life’s conveniences. No
running water. No electricity. He never owned a truck and refused
to use a chainsaw. He preferred his burros and a crosscut. But he
could always be depended on to deliver a full, tightly packed cord of
wood at a fair price. At over 80 years of age, the last of this
hardy breed died in his cabin in the fall of 1957.
I
have seen a few reports of hikes to the cabin by others. These
reports all provide sketchy details about Jeronimo, but they provide
no sources for their information and they spell his name with a “G”
rather than a “J.” Largely disregarding these sources I have
chosen to rely on the information provided by the, now missing,
poster.
If
you examine the area around the cabin carefully you will find, a few
yards away from the
northeast corner of the cabin, a large
firmly-embedded rock with the remnants of a wire cable wrapped around
it (left).
Taken
together with the wire cable anchor we had noted, about 0.2 miles “as
the crow flies,” back down the trail, this could mean that Jeronimo
had rigged up a highline of some sort to haul supplies up the steep
slope to his cabin. Or, perhaps, he even used it to transport wood
down the mountain to a loading area where the road ended at the wash.
The only wire cable we actually saw were the pieces at the two
anchor sites. However, that means little as any cable strung between
the sites would long ago have been harvested for other uses.
We
returned to the open area in front of the cabin and posed for a group
photograph by George, using time delay.
Left to right: Terry Johnson, Phillip Sullivan, Kwi Johnson, George Everman, Anita Jackson, the author, Daisy Williams, Joyce Arregui and Dolly Yapp. |
Just
to the right of where we were posed for the group photograph, below
the rock wall seen here and accessible only by ducking under a
low-lying limb, is located the beginning of a faint trail that runs
northeast from the cabin on up the canyon to Jeronimo's Spring.
Although the trail is now largely overgrown, it is quite obvious that
a great deal of effort was expended to build it. Rocks have been
removed and, in some places, the lower side of the trail has been
reinforced by a low rock wall, basically just a single layer of rocks
alongside the trail.
Not
far up the trail from the cabin we came to what appeared to be a
newly-made trail running down the mountain directly toward the wash.
This “trail” was marked by several fresh cuts of relatively large
branches, three to four inches in diameter, and by the clearing away
of ground debris and low-lying undergrowth. White ribbons were also
placed along the way. We were puzzled as to why anyone would
construct a trail running in that direction and it didn't occur to me
until later that it was actually the boundary of a prescribed burn
conducted by the Forest Service last November. We had encountered
the eastern boundary of the same burn during a hike on Gaddes Canyon
Trail at that time.
We
continued on up the canyon to the spring and found that, as it had
been when I was last there in 2008, it was bone dry. I had been
greatly disappointed to find no water during that previous visit, but
knew better than to expect any now. There is a great deal of
healthy-looking plant growth, including a lot of poison ivy, around
the old site (right), but
absolutely no other sign of moisture.
After
retracing our way to the cabin, we started looking for the beginning
of Jeronimo's Burro Trail. George and I had both hiked this trail in
2008, but we remembered it as starting at the cabin and running at
first along the contour of the ridge.. After an abortive start, we
discovered that it actually starts just below the cabin and descends
steadily in parallel with and never more than about about 100 yards
from the trail we had come in on. In common with the trail to the
spring, this trail is overgrown and seldom used. However, the old
well-worn track is discernible in most places and one can easily
follow it with a bit of care.
When
we arrived at the bottom of the side canyon that contains Jeronimo's
Cabin and rejoined the trail we had followed on the way in, we
stopped for lunch in a grove of ponderosa pines. A light breeze was
blowing down Burnt Canyon and it was a most pleasant spot.
Jeronimo's
Cabin is a place known to a lot of people, each of whom seems to
think it is a secret. Apparently they all want to keep it a secret
as none of the visit reports I have read provide any guidance as to
how to get there.
As
for me, I don't consider the location a secret and have attached a
map (below) showing the cabin,
the spring and the trails leading to them. The red line is our GPS
track from Forest Road 314 at Burnt Tank to the cabin and on to the
spring. The blue line shows the alternate route to the cabin. I
have called this the Burro Trail.
The
hike was a total of 3.6 miles round trip, the maximum elevation was
7196 feet and the total ascent was 860 feet. The distance from FR
413 to the cabin was 1.1 miles and the distance from the cabin to the
spring was 0.2 miles.
Thank you for your very informative write-up.
ReplyDeleteThe poster isn't missing, it's in the Douglas Museum now
ReplyDeleteI was there today trying to find the cabin and couldn't. I went through the gate and must have went up the wrong road. There seems to be a lot of wood cutting activity up there. I want to find it badly.
ReplyDeleteThank you for this write up! I stumbled across it today while researching something else. I came across this cabin in July 1989 and never knew the history of the place although I knew it was a special place. I still remember the boots inside.
ReplyDelete