Saturday, November 6, 2010

Telephone Trail


Nine hikers from the Skyliners group hiked on Telephone Trail #72 in Oak Creek Canyon on Saturday, 06 November 2010

We drove through Sedona on Hwy 89A and parked alongside the road about a tenth of a mile beyond mile marker 385. From there we hiked a bit less than a tenth of a mile further to reach the trailhead. Contrary to what we had been led to believe, parking was not a problem; even though it was almost 9 AM on a Saturday morning. It should be noted, however, that when we completed the hike around 3 PM, the area parking was at a premium.

The trailhead is fairly well marked (right - photograph by George), although one must know where to look and be alert to avoid missing it.

The trail runs up the canyon, parallel to the highway for just over a tenth of a mile before turning sharply up the canyon wall. This area of the forest has recently been thinned, and the workers apparently appropriated a section of the trail for use during this operation. Unfortunately, where the work trail leaves Telephone Trail, it is now much more obvious than the original trail, and we made the mistake of continuing on the work trail at this point. 

After a while, finding that we were circling back down the slope, we turned back to intersect Telephone Trail near the point where we had left it. This side trip is included in the round trip hiking distance given in this report and is shown separately, in green, on the attached Google Earth map.

Just over half a mile from the trailhead (not counting our side trip on the work trail), we came out on top of a sharp ridge with a view down the other side into another side canyon. We stopped here for a snack before continuing southeast along the trail, which ran just below the crest for a distance, then crossed over and followed the other side of the crest to a sharp narrow ridge of rock that formed the spine of the ridge crest at that point. This section of rock (left) has several windows (or peepholes, as some call them) through which one can look through back down into Oak Creek Canyon. Several pictures of these windows are shown below.

Window in rock crest of ridge
Window in rock crest of ridge – tree beyond
The trail leads between the tree and the windows
 

View of Oak Creek Canyon through the window  – by George Everman
Kissing rocks at top
The section of trail between where we had stopped for a snack and the window rocks was fairly easy, following at generally the same level along the ridge spine. Soon after passing the window rocks, however, the trail, still following along the ridge between side canyons, grew sharply steeper and was a bit difficult to follow in places. Fortunately, wrong turns soon became apparent and we never had to retrace our steps more than a few yards. A rock formation known as the “Baby Carriage”came into view as we continued our climb. To me it looked more like Albert the Alligator, from the old Pogo comic strip, with Pogo the Possum astride his neck, than a baby carriage.

The Baby Carriage 
although I still see a Possum (Pogo) riding an Alligator (Albert)
Not more than two tenths of a mile of steep climbing from window from the rocks we came to what we decided must be the end of Telephone Trail on top of the canyon rim. Although there were signs of old roads in the area, we found no discernible trail beyond this point, and stopped here for lunch. We were approximately one mile from the trailhead on Hwy 89A.

After lunch for everyone and a quick nap for me, we walked on along the rim in a generally southwest direction for about two tenths of a mile. We had some discussion about continuing along the rim and descending by way of the Thomas Point Trail. However, we were uncertain how difficult it would be to find the start of that trail and decided to return the way we came, putting off a Thomas Point-Telephone Trails Loop for another day.

Climbing the trail had been difficult due to the steep gradient; traveling back down, while much faster and easier, presented difficulties of its own. I heard several hikers say that it was much harder on the knees than the climb up had been. But we all made it in good condition and paused at the lower trailhead for a group photograph.

We also had a great view of Mount Agassiz framed by trees as we approached the top of the trail.

Magnified view of Mt. Agassiz framed by trees
Left to right: Daisy Williams, John McInerney, Linda Tovar, Betty Wolters,

George Everman, Miriam Sterling, Name Withheld, Donna Goodman 
– Photograph by the author
The total hiking distance was just about four miles. That includes a short hike from where we parked to the trailhead, the work trail hike that we inadvertently took, and the extra four tenths of a mile we hiked along the rim after lunch. The elevation change, according to my GPS file was about 1370 feet.

The GPS track for this hike is shown on the included map (below). Telephone Trail is shown in red; the yellow track shows where wandered along the rim.





Saturday, October 30, 2010

Coleman-Gaddes Loop Hike


Eleven hikers from the Skyliners group hiked on the Coleman and Gaddes Canyon Trails on Mingus on Saturday, October 30, 2010

We drove through Jerome to the top of Mingus Mountain on Hwy 89A and turned left on Forest Road 104. We then turned on Forest Road 413 (marked as the road to Cherry at the turn off), drove around the to south of Mingus and parked at the Black Canyon Trailhead in the mouth of Gaddis Canyon. After parking, we hiked 0.6 miles further north on FR 413 (Allen Spring Road) to the Coleman Trailhead. The below photograph was taken at that point.

Left to right (standing): Kwi Johnson, Dolly Yapp, Betty Wolters, Daisy 

Williams, Miriam Sterling, Virginia Driscoll, Donna Goodman, David Nelson,
 Lila Wright, Ellis Price, Linda Tovar and John McInerney; 
Sitting: George Everman
We followed Coleman rail as it snaked up the south slope of Mingus, pausing frequently to catch out breath.

To our left as we ascended was a high ridge, with a sheer cliff facing us. Beyond this ridge lay Gaddes Canyon, our intended return route. After we had climbed about 950 feet (of a total climb of around 1370 feet) and just after the trail turned sharply to the west, we left it and traveled for about 50 yards north to come out atop a sheer cliff overlooking Verde Valley. Kwi is shown (below) eating her snack at the rim.

Kwi perched at the rim eating her snack
The wind was quite strong and a bit chilly on the cliff top; however we were able to find adequate shelter and the view was excellent.

From atop the south end of Mingus, looking across Verde Valley and the

Mogollon Rim to the San Francisco Peaks beyond.
After our snack we continued on, climbing about around another 350 feet to arrive at Forest Service Road 104 near the south set of communications towers on Mingus.

At this point we went wrong. Instead of turning right on the road and following it to the Gaddes Canyon Trailhead, we turned left, intending to intersect with the trail further along. We then came to a fork and took the left branch which led us in a circle back the way we had come. Upon discovering our error we retraced our steps to the fork and took the other branch. This however led us just about directly south while we should have gone directly west to intersect with the trail into Gaddes Canyon. John pointed this out to us several times along the way; however, I felt sure that we could intersect with the trail by traveling southwest and others wanted to find a viewpoint on the rim of Gaddes Canyon for our lunch stop.

I turned out that we did find a good viewpoint on the canyon rim. Unfortunately, because of the steep drop into the canyon, we then had to turn back north along the canyon rim searching for a way down. We eventually came to a very faint trail, marked by cairns, which seemed to lead into the canyon. We decided to try that instead of traveling further in hopes of striking the main trail. That turned out to be a pretty good decision. Although the trail, at least as marked by cairns, ended part way down the slope, we were able to continue our descent to the bottom of the canyon without too much effort and connect with Trail 9037 leading back to where we had parked.

One interesting site we found shortly after starting our cross-country odyssey was a round concrete foundation about 40 feet in circumference. My first thought was that it must have been a fairly elaborate foundation for an above ground tank of some sort. Then David pointed out that there were tie-downs installed in the concrete. That along with the discovery of a nearby metal pole, set in concrete, that would have served admirably to hold a windsock, led us to think that the pad must have been constructed as a helicopter-landing pad.

See the mothership yet? Or perhaps it's just a helicopter-landing pad?
– photo by George
Although we did have trouble finding a way down into the canyon and we never did intersect with the trail we were looking for, we were never in danger of getting lost. We had Gaddes Canyon to our left, we knew the direction to the Mingus Campground and we could actually see the communication towers much of the time. The route we followed was on relative open terrain; however, there were some portions that were fairly rough hiking in that we were walking on loose rocks. This caused a couple of minor falls, but no injuries that couldn’t be taken care of by the application of a few band-aids.

First aid station
The lack of a clearly defined trail did at times cause some confusion among our hikers. I think we were all missing the late Lynne Tingley a bit. She would have known exactly where we were.

OK…there must be a trail here somewhere.
After we at last found our way on Trail 9037 in the floor of the canyon, the going was easy and we made good time for the rest of the hike.

There were several interesting sightings along the way. Several tarantulas were sighted and the trail down Gaddes canyon was virtually littered with bear scat.

Tarantula 
Black bear scat
John and I actually saw a large black bear ahead on the trail at one point. John thought it might weigh 300 to 400 pounds. Neither of us had a camera ready at the time and the bear had hightailed it on down the rail before we could snap a picture. John went ahead by himself in an attempt to get close enough for a good photograph. Although he did get another glimpse of the bear, it was never visible long enough for him to focus and snap a picture.

This hike left us still unsure of the best way to hike the Coleman-Gaddes Canyon Loop and I think that we shall soon be scheduling an exploratory hike to find out. This would involve hiking the entire length of both Gaddes Canyon Trail 110 and Trail 9037.

A review of the Garmin file after downloading it to my computer shows that we hiked 6.6 miles (not counting taking the wrong trail and having to double back or the wandering around some of us did during the lunch stop), that the highest elevation was 7631 feet and the total ascent was 1672 feet. Our GPS track is shown on the included map (below)




Saturday, October 16, 2010

Rio de Flag and Old Caves Crater


A group of nine Skyliners hiked in the Flagstaff area on October 16, 2010.

Standing: Lila Wright, Donna Goodman, Daisy Williams, Virginia Driscoll, Anita Jackson and David Nelson; Kneeling: Betty Wolters, Dolly Yapp and Miriam Sterling - Photograph by Ester Diebel.

I was unable to hike that day and Lila Wright provided the information for this report. The hikers drove to Flagstaff, where they were joined by Betty’s friend Ester Diebel, and parked in the Elden Pueblo parking lot (see map at [below] for the location of the parking lot) and hiked 1.7 miles to Rio de Flag.
Elden Pueblo and Parking Lot
Lila provided a narrative and several photographs; which I used for this report. The two photos below show petroglyphs next to Rio de Flag.

Petroglyphs near Rio de Flag
Petroglyphs near Rio de Flag
In one area a stream had recently been restored to its original course. Our footprints were the first in this area since restoration.

Stream recently restored to original path
 – Skyliners leaving the first human footsteps in the restored area
We hiked south along the stream to the small Indian room shown below with Dolly inside.

Dolly crouched inside an Indian room
A little further south we viewed several small waterfalls and one larger one shown in the below photo.

Waterfall at Rio de Flag
We completed our visit to Rio de Flag by 11300 and Esther suggested another short hike only a couple of miles away. So we drove the short distance to the trailhead to Old Caves Crater. The distance to the top of the crater was 1.2 miles. The next photo, looking out of a cave, is followed by one looking into a cave.
View looking out of a cave at Old Caves Crater
View looking into a cave at Old Caves Crater
From this crater we looked west to the summer forest fire burn area on the side of the Peaks and to where flooding recently occurred.

Looking to the area of the summer forest fire
Showing the area where flooding recently occurred
There were Indian ruins in this area similar to Tuzigoot and pottery shards similar to that shown (below) are scattered everywhere.

Pottery shard
In the below photograph Ester Diebel is pointing out something east with her home in the background. Meanwhile, the small hill in the far background is the location of the Rio de Flag hike we completed before driving to our present location at Old Caves Crater.

The small hill, center right background, is the location of the Rio de Flag hike
No GPS track was made of this hike and no map produced. Nor are any statistics available. It was, however, reported to be an easy hike.

Saturday, October 2, 2010

Indian Ruins off Loy Canyon Trail



We hiked to Indian ruins in Loy Canyon on 13 January 2010 and again on 2 October 2010. To avoid duplication, I have combined the two hikes into one report. From Cottonwood, we traveled north on Hwy 89A, turned left onto Forest Road 525 at the Sedona Water Treatment facility (just past mile marker 364). We drove for about 10.1 miles (according to my GPS) on FR 525 before turning left into the trailhead parking area for the Loy Canyon Trail (34°55'56.29"N; 111°55'30.15"W). The parking area is at the edge of Hancock Ranch and the trailhead is located directly across the road. Following FR 525 from Hwy 89A is pretty straightforward; just stay on 525 and don’t be fooled into turning onto 525C or 525D.

At first, the trail follows along the edge of Hancock Ranch on the way up Loy Canyon. About 0.70 miles from the trailhead, a faint trail leads off to the right (at 34°56'23.20"N; 111°55'28.53"W), just before the main trail crosses a streambed. This is the trail to one of the three Indian ruins we visited on this hike … the third one. However, we decided to defer a visit to these ruins until after we had visited the more impressive sites on the opposite canyon wall, so we continued on until we came to the trail turnoff. The turnoff, located about 0.45 miles on up Loy Canyon Trail (at 34°56'44.75"N; 111°55'28.08"W), is not very visible; however, it is well marked by a large dead tree with cropped limbs.  The photograph shown here (right) is a view of the dead tree as seen from just down the trail from the turnoff.

We decided to stop at the turnoff for a group photograph, nine of us posed in the tree.  The tenth hiker used George's camera to take the photograph (below).

Left to right (top to bottom):“ Ellis Price, Dolly Yapp, Lila Wright, Gordon Bice, George Everman, Miriam Sterling, Anita Jackson, Daisy Williams and Betty Wolters – photograph by tenth hiker using George's camera
The above group photograph, taken on 2 October 2010, includes all of the hikers, except Jim Manning, who visited the ruins on 13 January.

To orient ourselves, we wanted to locate the area where the first ruins were located. Luckily, we discovered that by walking a few yards on up the trail beyond the dead tree, and looking to the northwest, we had a clear view of the ruins (belowthat were our goal. They appeared to be about two-thirds of the way up the canyon wall and above at least two major ledges that would have to be conquered on the way up.

View of ruins from Loy Canyon Trail – they are marked by a small red arrow
To this point the trail was well marked and the going easy. But we knew that when we left the main trail it would become much more difficult and would involve a lot of climbing over and around rock ledges as we attempted to find our way up the canyon wall to the ruins above.The second of the two ledges proved to be the more difficult. After a few false starts, we finally succeed by climbing up a narrow slit to emerge on the ledge just below the ruins. Hikers are shown here (below) climbing up the slit in the following two photographs.

Climbing up the slit – photograph by George Everman
Hikers emerging from the top of the slit


After we emerged from the slit, it was a short, relatively easy, climb on to the ruins.. The approximate location is 34°56'48.35"N; 111°55'40.99.” However, my GPS was acting erratically in the canyon and I cannot be sure of the exact location.

Another hiking group arrived while we were there. They did not appear to be at all happy to find us at the site. I would even go so far as to say that they bordered on being unfriendly. Although we observed later that they were visiting two of the same sites we were, they professed not to know of any other ruins in the area. When asked about other sites, they suggested the ruins on past Loy Butte that are visited by the pink jeep tours, never mentioning the other nearby site that they, as well as we, were visiting next.

The ruins turned out to be well worth the effort of the climb.

Hikers examining the ruins – Site 1
Just around a fold in the cliff was visible a smaller ruin placed all to itself and difficult to access from the main ruins. We decided to call it the “Mother in Law” cottage.

The “Mother in Law Cottage”- Site 1
We left soon after the other group arrived and stopped nearby for a snack break. While we were stopped, they climbed on up the wall of the canyon and traveled along the top to the next site. After our break we continued along the ledge we were on to find a place to ascend to the ledge where the next site was located. Coming around a corner, we could see the location of the site; however, there were sheer cliff walls between it and our position and it was necessary to climb up to the next ledge to pass above that section of cliff. The route proved to be circuitous, but not too strenuous. One spot did require a bit of climbing up a rock face. However, I discovered that it would be possible to avoid that spot by bushwhacking a bit further along the face of the ledge. When we topped out just above the level on which the next ruins were located and again rounded the corner of the cliff, we could see our goal ahead and slightly below us.

The second Indian Ruins visited are located at the base of the cliff between the Ponderosa Pine and the large vertical black stripes on the face of the cliff
(NOTE: Although they are not visible in this photograph, we could also see the other group of hikers ahead of us moving toward the ruins. We were pleased to find that they were gone by the time we arrived.)

The going from here proved to be fairly easy, with just a hundred yards or so of rather steep climbing near the ruins. This last, more difficult, leg of the trail leads through a grove of manzanita. I took the opportunity to stop for a few photographs of this attractive shrub (see below).

Manzanita below Indian Ruins                Manzanita below Indian Ruins
These ruins, located approximately at 34°56'42.05"N; 111°55'50.54"W, were not as impressive as the first site we visited.

Not much remained of any structures. There were some drawings; however, I am not sure which, if any, of them were really made by Indians.

Drawings at Indian Ruins – site two        Structural remains – site two
We have previously referred to this as the site of the turquoise cross. That name came from the small cross, located in the lower right quadrant of the above picture of the drawings. On closer examination, we decided that the cross is a fairly recent addition to the drawings. We were not sure of the other drawings; however, we were skeptical that any were actually made by the Indians.

When we were finished with this site, on our 13 January hike, we decided to retrace our steps back to the ledge on which the first ruins were located and see whether we could find an easier route for a future hikes planned for the entire Skyliner group. We did find a way to bypass the narrow slit we climbed up on our way up, and most of us took this route for the return trip on the 2 October hike. Few of the group really wanted to climb back down the narrow slit we had used for the ascent. But it should be noted that it is still a strenuous climb and that some of the group on any future hikes might wish to stop part way up and wait for the rest to return. There are numerous places that would make for a comfortable wait.

After returning to the Loy Canyon Trail, we headed back down the canyon and upon reaching the turnoff to the site of the cliff drawings, decided to explore those also. Accordingly, we turned up the streambed which is only a few yards from the trail to the drawings and followed it most of the way there before emerging and finishing the trip on the trail. This site, located at 34°56'30.24"N; 111°55'8.53"W, appears to have been mostly used for camping. There is an overhang of the cliff wall that would provide excellent shelter and a good place for fires. The drawings were a mixture of White man’s graffiti and other drawings, some of which could possibly have been made by Indians. Here are a few samples.

Miscellaneous Drawings – site three        Miscellaneous Drawings – site three
A Turtle? – site three                                  Very faint drawing – site three
We thought the drawing shown in the bottom left photograph (above) might be a turtle.

After lingering for a bit to discuss the drawings (and graffiti) we followed the trail that runs alongside the streamed back to the Loy Canyon Trail and then continued on to the trailhead.

My GPS file says that the hike was 7.2 miles; however that cannot be accurate. I think that the GPS signals were bouncing off the canyon walls causing major errors. Based on a quick measurement using Google Earth, I think we probably hiked about 4.60 miles.

Our GPS track, although incomplete and not of very good quality because of reception in the canyon, is shown on the included map (below). Note that only the approximate turnoff is shown for site 3.




Saturday, June 26, 2010

Indian Ruin Cave on Mingus


This was a hike to a cave containing an Indian ruin on Mingus Mountain. On June 26, 2010 we met at the Safeway parking lot in Cottonwood and carpooled from there. We took Mingus Ave past the animal shelter and continued straight on Forest Road 493 to park at a sharp bend in the road where a single-bar locked gate blocks the entrance into Iron King Mine (Position: 34°42'11.79"N; 112° 5'43.59"W). We proceeded from there on foot following an old road for about half a mile through the mine area to reach the lower end of Trail 106 where it intersects with FR 413.

Between the parking area and FR 413 we paused for a group photograph:

Left to right: Name Withheld (to left of hiker in red shirt), Gary Brooks

(red shirt), Donna Goodman, George Everman, Anna Lorenzelli, Ellis Price,
Gordon Bice – photograph by John McInerney
When we were in this area two weeks ago, the Palmer’s penstemons were blooming profusely. They along with many of the other flowers we saw on that hike, were mostly gone now. Anna Lorenzelli (our visitor from Switzerland) and John McInerney both had their cameras at the ready, so we were sure to catch any flowers that were out. Actually, though, I think Anna may have been more interested in spotting a rattlesnake, as she was afraid that she would be returning home without having seen one. In any case we did find a several flowers along the way, some new and some repeats from our last hike in the area.

Missouri gourd 

Hooker's evening primrose
Field bindweed
Century Plant (agave) - by John McInerney
Just above Iron King Mine, we crossed Allen Spring Road (FR 413) and followed Trail 106 up the mountain; traveling essentially parallel with Allen Spring Road for a while but then gradually diverging as we climbed diagonally up the mountain slope. We had great views across Verde Valley to the San Francisco Peaks beyond.

About 1.1 miles from Allen Spring Road we turned off the trail to travel northeast for 130 yards to a viewpoint that afforded a first view of the cave we would visit.

George and I had first spotted the cave from during a previous hike from this viewpoint, position 34°42'37.72"N; 112° 6'26.41"W. We returned there now to review the terrain around the cave and better orient ourselves for the route we intended to take from the junction of Trails 105A/105 to the cave. The below picture taken previously and at another time of year, as demonstrated by the snow on the ground, shows the cave’s location.

This picture was taken with a zoom lens during an earlier visit. The cave 
visible through binoculars at the red X.
After a brief pause to rest at the viewpoint, we returned to Trail 106 and continued on up the mountain for about 100 yards to the intersection with Trail 105A. We then followed Trail 105A, along the side of the mountain, almost to its end at Trail 105, cutting off about 30 yards short of the intersection, to bushwhack our way northeast along the side of a ridge and crossing above the head of a wash before traveling down the spine of the ridge in which the cave is located.

As noted above, we left Trail 105A just before reaching Trail 105. George and I had hiked this route previously and we were now following the old GPS route from that hike, expecting to bushwhack all the way from Trail 105A to the cave. To our surprise, about 40 yards from the trail, we encountered a mountain bike trail that apparently runs from the intersection of Trails 105A and 105 along the side of the mountain, just where we wanted to go. It appears that one could take the mountain bike trail at the intersection and follow it to the northeast for approximately 250 yards before leaving it to bushwhack, in a generally east, then southeast direction, down the spine of the ridge to reach the cave. To avoid as much undergrowth as possible, it is best to travel down the ridge on the southwest side just below the spine. As it were, we followed the mountain bike trail too far, winding up on the northeast side of the ridge, and had to cut back across the spine through heavy growth to rejoin our old GPS track to the cave. (NOTE: I have corrected that miscalculation in the attached GPS file by cutting out the extra distance and joining the new route to the old one from the previous hike.) We came out just above the cave and circled around to approach it from below rather than climb down the steep cliff face. It is located at 34°42'56.96"N; 112° 6'25.55"W.

A lot of rock has fallen from the cliff above the entrance and one must climb over it to enter the cave. In the below photograph, Anna and Donna are shown standing atop the fallen rock, with the top one third of the cave opening showing in the background.

Anna and Donna standing atop the fallen rock in front of the cave
– photo by John McInerney


Anna, among the first to enter the cave, soon found what she had been looking for all the while, a rattlesnake.

Rattlesnake occupying the cave when we arrived – photo by Anna Lorenzelli
Anna and George approaching the snake close enough to take the 
close-up photograph shown above.
Just inside the mouth of the cave, are visible the remains of what appears to have been a walled-off enclosure, or room (photo at right, taken 7/24/08). The wall of the room has partly fallen down now, but it appears to have reached to the ceiling of the cave at sometime in the past. There is evidence of fires having been utilized inside the cave in the past, with two distinctly different shades of soot deposited. The cave itself is fairly shallow, extending back no more than 25 to 30 feet. However, an opening extends to the right for about 50 feet before becoming too small for passage.

After looking around in the cave, we left it to the snake, and ate lunch before heading back to our cars. While eating we noted the following flowers Just outside the cave.

Golden columbine 
Chaparral nightshade -- photograph by Anna Lorenzelli
After lunch, we proceeded to bushwhack on down the mountain to enter Allen Spring Road at a sharp bend. The trip down the mountain to the road was easy, as bushwhacking goes, in that it was relatively open. On the other hand, our route was rather steep in a few places. Anna captured this part of the descent graphically.

Descending to Allen Spring Road from the cave – photo by Anna Lorenzelli
Once we reached Allen Spring Road, the rest of the hike was uneventful. It was about 1.miles to the Trailhead 106 above Iron King Mine and another half mile on down to the cars. Below are two pictures taken along the way back -- the first a Roving Sailor flower, the second an old road above Iron King Mine that has been converted into a water diversion channel.

Roving sailor
Old road converted into a water diversion channel above Iron King Mine
– photo by Anna Lorenzelli
And not to be forgotten, here is George posing with his rock bear cairn alongside Trail 106. This cairn, made using a rock bearing the general outline of a bear, marked in red, is near the spot where George met a bear on the trail a couple of years ago.

George and his rock bear cairn alongside Trail 106
My GPS shows that we hiked about 4.7 miles, the highest elevation was 6958 feet and the total ascent was 2077 feet. 

Our track to the cave is shown in red on the included map (below).  Our return track is shown in blue.