Sheepshead - Spring Creek Riparian - Oak Creek

On 31 December 2011, we drove north from Cottonwood on Hwy 89A and turned right onto Oak Creek Valley Road at the top of the hill just before the Spring Creek Bridge. We continued on Oak Creek Valley Road for about 1.6 miles and turned right onto N Merritt Ranch Road. We then continued on this road for one mile and parked where a very faint old dirt road leads off to the right. (Position: N 34°44'11.88"; W 111°55'15.11")

Before starting our hike, we paused for a group photograph.

Left to right: Al Westbruck, Tom Mantovani, Colleen Maktenieks, 

George Everman (front) Terry Johnson (rear) Janet Wakefield, 

Robert Wakefield (rear) Jo Benkendorf, Dolly Yapp (front), 

Mary Gavin (rear), Cindy Covin, Karen Reiner (rear), Daisy Williams (front), 

Jan Tomko, Donna Goodman, Miriam Sterling, Betty Wolters 

– photograph by the author

After parking, we followed the old dirt road, heading upstream, along the slope of the hill bordering Sheepshead Canyon. We soon found ourselves walking along an old abandoned canal, not used for some twenty years. This canal continues upstream until it intersects with the creek running down the canyon at an old dam site. However, as our goal was a waterfall located further downstream, we left the canal (at position: N 34°44'17.69"; W 111°55'37.54", about 0.4 miles from where we parked,) and descended to the waterfall at the bottom of the canyon some distance below the old dam site. The two photographs below show a section of the old road and a section of the old canal.

Road to old dam site

Old canal

The waterfall is about 25 feet high and would be rather spectacular if there were enough water flowing. I do understand, however, that the stream never completely dries up. Lila, who grew up in the area told us that the canal supplied water to a pond (I guess that would be a tank since we are in Arizona) only in the winter, but that the water has always flowed year round. No one had an explanation as to why water was not diverted during the summer. Perhaps local swimmers insisted on maintaining the pool formed at the base of the waterfall?

We didn’t linger long at the waterfall, just long enough for me to test my new waterproof socks. They worked quite well, by the way, and are what I plan to use for hiking in Ireland later this spring. I understand the trails get quite wet and muddy and we were advised to bring waterproof shoes. I have waders (hiking boots that drain water quickly) and I wear wool socks under the waterproof socks.

Below is shown shown a picture of the sock test and a picture showing the shoe drainage arrangement.

The waterproof sock test

Showing shoe drains

We had descended into the canyon at the top of the waterfall and we left by climbing back up the same way for a short distance and then turning to continue downstream so as to climb Sheepshead Mountain, where we paused for a snack and to take in the surrounding views. We could look back up the canyon beyond our entry point to where the head of the canyon was visible about a mile in the distance. We also had clear views out over Cornville and along Oak Creek, both upstream and downstream. The round trip distance for this short hike was just 1.4 miles as measured on my GPS. The map below shows the way.

Hike from N Merritt Ranch Road to Sheepshead Mountain past 

Sheepshead Waterfall

After our snack break, we retraced our steps back past the waterfall, back along the old canal, up the dirt road to our parked cars, and headed for the next segment of what would be a three-piece hike. After reaching our cars, we drove about one mile back along N Merritt Ranch Road to N Oak Creek Valley Road, turned right and followed it for another 0.5 miles before parking at a locked gate on the left. We crossed through a pedestrian opening in the fence at the gate and followed an old road for about 0.2 miles to reach the entrance to the Spring Creek Riparian Exclosure. The trail continues for another 0.1 miles to its end at Spring Creek. Thus the round trip distance of this second part of our three-piece hike was only about 0.6 miles. The only caution I have for this part of the hike is that after passing through the gate, walking about 300 feet downhill and crossing a wash, you should be alert to take the left fork in the road where it turns sharply up a small hill. The right fork (straight ahead) will lead to the same place. However it is just a bit longer and there is another fork along the way that could be misleading. The map below shows the way.

How to get to the Spring Creek Riparian Area (Exclosure) from Hwy 89A

A Coconino National Forest sign (right) is posted at the entrance to the riparian area. It calls it the Spring Creek Riparian Exclosure.

The area at the end of the trail into the area, with a patch of grass and trees all about, is such a pleasant place that one is tempted to linger for awhile. But we had other plans and soon tore ourselves away; we wanted to eat lunch at a waterfall on Oak Creek. I did, however, stay long enough to take a photograph.

Spring Creek Riparian Exclosure

Leaving the riparian area, we traveled, accompanied by the owner, across private property to a nearby waterfall on Oak Creek for lunch.

Waterfall on Oak Creek

Eating lunch at Oak Creek

The third, and final section of our three piece hike was a 1.2-mile (round trip) trail along the west (actually north at this point) side of Oak Creek, starting at Mormon Crossing and going downstream. See the map below:

Hike along Oak Creek below Mormon Crossing

This three-piece hike, as described, here is suitable for any time of year. The total hiking distance is just over three miles and is almost all along streams. No wading is required and there is very little climbing.

If you are a bit more adventurous and want to explore the entire length of Sheepshead Canyon, the following directions (from a January 2011 hike) will get you there:

How to hike down Sheepshead Canyon to Sheepshead Mountain

“Drive north from Cottonwood on Hwy 89A and turn right on Oak Creek Valley Road at the top of the hill just before you reach the Spring Creek Bridge.

Drive on Oak Creek Valley Road for about 0.8 miles before turning right onto a dirt road at the junction of Oak Creek Valley Road with N Willow Point Road. Continue on the dirt road for approximately 0.5 miles to arrive at the head of Sheepshead Canyon, not much of a canyon at this point. Park, enter the canyon and proceed downstream for about 1.7 miles to arrive at a high waterfall, passing a no longer used dam that once fed an irrigation canal leading along the left canyon wall and two retaining dams, apparently meant to prevent erosion and provide a riparian area. Leave the canyon by the left wall about 50 yards upstream of the waterfall and head for Sheepshead Mountain, clearly visible about 0.3 miles ahead.”

How to do a hike down Sheepshead Canyon to Sheepshead Mountain

NOTE: To make a one-way hike of a trip down Sheepshead, just leave a car on N Merritt Ranch Road where we parked today (31 December 2011) and return to it from Sheepshead Mountain following today’s route.

Quail Springs Ranch to FR 493 via Oxbow Spring

Thirteen Skyliner Hikers hiked from Quail Springs Ranch Road to FR 493 and back on Saturday, 17 December 2011. We met at the Safeway Parking lot and drove north on Hwy 89A, turned right on Camino Real and drove through Verde Village to Quail Springs Ranch Road. We traveled on that road for a bit over 1.5 miles, passing Quail Run on the way. About 0.8 miles from Quail Run, at the bottom of a wash, we turned right onto a rough dirt road leading uphill to the top of a ridge. At least I turned right; others chose to park alongside the paved road and walk in. I parked about 0.07 miles from the paved road and we started the hike from there.

The trail leads generally east at first, following an old road running down crest of the ridge. After about 0.1 miles the road intersects with another old road running generally west and ending at the wash just near Pasture Well. We turned downstream and followed the wash for about 0.5 miles until we came to a rock cairn located on the left where a side wash enters the main wash. We followed this wash for a few yards and then angled up the hill to the right of the side wash. The trail is faintly marked by rocks placed alongside and by an occasional cairn as it leads sharply up the slope toward the crest of the ridge. On reaching the crest the trail continues along it, rising gently, in a generally northwest direction. The goal is to reach old FR 355 (now unused) just before it dips to the left over the sharp shoulder of the ridge we are following. To do this we kept fairly close to the left shoulder of the ridge. When we reached a fence we were just a few yards from the old forest road. A cairn at old FR 355 marks the end of this section of trail. We had hiked about 1.25 miles up the ridge and along the crest from the wash at Pasture Well.

We turned right on old FR 355 and followed it for around 0.17 miles to its end at Chuckwalla Road, passing a large, green metal water tank (now unused) on the way. We stopped here for a snack and a group photograph (see next page) before passing through a wire gate and continuing downhill on Chuckwalla Road.

The group photograph shown below was taken at the intersection of old FR 355 and Chuckwalla Road:

Left to right: Jim Manning, Dolly Yapp (kneeling), Donna Goodman, 

Kwi Johnson (kneeling), Miriam Sterling, Becky Fowsky, 

Betty Wolters (kneeling), Frank Fowsky, Daisy Williams, 

Anita Jackson and Jo Benkendorf – photograph by the author

About 0.5 miles down the road from the wire gate, we came to a fork in the road. Chuckwalla road leads to the right and continues downhill to eventually (after passing through posted private property) connect with Chuckwalla Road in a residential neighborhood above Cottonwood. (NOTE: Chuckwalla is located at the upper end of Fir Street and runs north-south along the very edge of the residential area.)

The road to our left is unnamed so far as I can determine, although on some maps it may be incorrectly called Chuckwalla. I refer to it as Oxbow Road because, after crossing Oak Wash, it runs just below Oxbow Spring. After passing the spring it turns sharply right, crosses a wash just below a group of ranch buildings, and then climbs gently in an easterly direction along the shoulder of a ridge until it reaches the top. It then crosses over and leads for a short distance in a generally westerly direction before crossing a wash and heading north to connect with FR 493 just ahead.

Upon reaching FR 493, we followed it downhill toward Cottonwood for about 0.2 miles before turning off to follow a four-wheel drive road leading to the southeast. When we turned off we were about 2 miles up FR 493 from the Animal Shelter in Cottonwood. We followed the track we were now on across a wash and stopped in a sunny spot for lunch – and a short nap for me. We then continued on, crossing Oak Wash again and reconnected with the road I have called Oxbow. From there, we retraced our steps back to where we were parked.

The total hike distance, according to my cleaned-up GPS reading, was 6.6 miles. Someone else measured it as 7.2 on another GPS.

The most difficult part of the hike was the climb up to the crest of the ridge from the wash at Pasture Well. Overall, I would call this a moderate hike; if the trail were a bit better marked, it could be classified as “easy.”

The GPS track of this hike is shown on the included map (below).

Girdner-Rupp-Cockscomb-Dawa-AZ Cypress

Fourteen strong, we left the Cottonwood Safeway parking lot at 0800 on Saturday, 10 December 2011 to hike on Girdner and other connecting trails near Sedona. We drove to Sedona on Hwy 89A, turned left onto Cultural Park Place just across Hwy 89A from Red Rock High School and drove about 0.2 miles to the parking lot. Girdner trailhead is located near the Ramada in the parking area.

Following Girdner Trail we headed down the slope of a wash and then followed along the bank high above the wash until it reached Dry Creek about a mile from the trailhead. We stopped along the way for a group photograph with the red rocks for a background:

Left to right: Jim Manning, Bob McDonald (Donna’s Cousin), Lila Wright, 

Dolly Yapp (front), Jan Tomko (rear), Marvin Alt, Daisy Williams, 

Mary Gavan (rear), Becky Fowsky, Kwi Johnson, David Nelson, 

Collene Maktenieks, Donna Goodman – photograph by the author

On reaching Dry Creek we continued on Girdner Trail heading upstream until we came to Rupp Trail, which is 2.8 miles along Girdner from the trailhead. Leaving Girdner for now, we made a sharp left turn onto Rupp and followed it for 0.9 miles until it ended at Cockscomb Trail. We turned right on Cockscomb and followed it for 0.9 miles to the intersection with Dawa Trail, stopping just a short distance short of Dawa to eat lunch on a nice sunny slope. At the Cockscomb/Dawa intersection, we turned right onto Dawa and followed it for 0.6 miles to its end at AZ Cypress Trail, stopping along the way to take another photograph; someone insisted on taking another so as to include the photographer who took the group photograph near the Girdner Trailhead.

The author checking his GPS with other hikers in the background 

– photograph by Lila using the author's camera

When Dawa ended, we turned right onto AZ Cypress and followed it for 0.6 miles until it ended at Girdner Trail just 0.6 miles further upstream along Dry Creek than the intersection where we had turned off onto Rupp Trail.

Note: AZ Cypress crosses Dry Creek twice between the intersection with Dawa and Girdner. Just after we crossed for the second time, about 0.2 miles downstream from the Dawa/AZ Cypress intersection, Lila and several of the group broke off to follow an unmarked trail leading downstream parallel to Dry Creek. The rest of the party following the trail on the GPS map continued on AZ Cypress until it ended at Girdner. The trail that Lila and her group were on was shorter and also ended at Girdner. We found them waiting at the Rupp/Girdner intersection.

When the main party reached Girdner Trail, we headed downstream and arrived at the Girdner/Rupp intersection just 0.6 miles from the AZ Cypress/Girdner intersection. From there we repeated the 2.8 miles back along Girdner to the parking lot.

For clarity on the included map (below), I have color-coded the different trails we hiked on. Girdner is cyan, Rupp is green, Cockscomb is yellow, Dawa is blue and AZ Cypress is magenta.

Our total hiking distance was 9.5 miles; the highest elevation was 4597 feet and the total ascent was a bit more than 1000 feet. The trail was good all the way and there was not very much climbing. The most strenuous section was the mile between Dry Creek and the parking lot, especially climbing back on our return. I would call this hike moderately difficult.

Verde River Falls From the East

Fourteen Skyliners hiked to Verde River Falls on Saturday, 26 November 2011. We met in the Cottonwood Safeway parking lot and loaded into four-wheel drive vehicles. Leaving Cottonwood on Hwy 260, we drove through Camp Verde and turned on Fossil Creek Road. We turned off Fossil Creek Road onto FR 500 and followed it for about three miles before turning right onto FR 9244, which we followed until it ends on the bluff on the east side of Verde River in the area of the falls. FR 500 and FR 9244 are four-wheel drive roads and the going is very slow. After parking at the end of FR 9244 we passed through the gate shown below to hike down to the river.

Trailhead leading from the end of FR 9244 down to the river

About a tenth of a mile ahead the trail splits and one can go right to descend the canyon wall upstream of the falls or left to descend below the falls. For this hike we chose to go left and followed the trail down into a wash, reaching the bottom of the Verde River Canyon where the wash empties into it. It was a gradual descent all the way. However, the riverbank at this point is overgrown with thick vegetation and it is impossible to go upstream close along the stream bank. We instead stayed close against the cliff wall where the going was somewhat easier, but still required us to force our way through brush in places. About a tenth of a mile upstream from where we entered the canyon, we came to an old meander (obviously still used by the river during high water, but containing only a few pools of water now) and crossed over to stop for a snack on the rocky divide between the meander and the stream proper.

Stopped for a snack on the rocky divide between a meander and the 

main stream

After our snack we continued on upstream toward the falls, passing a well-camouflaged Salt River Project measuring station on the way (below).

Salt River Project measuring station with solar panels embedded in the top

There are three noticeable falls along this stretch of the river; I think the middle one is Verde River Falls. I suppose it is possible that all three may really constitute the falls. If that is true, I am at least approximately accurate when I call the middle one the falls. Approaching from downstream, I stopped to take a picture of the lower of the three.

Lower of three falls along this section

Between the lower and the middle falls we passed a couple of canoeists on their way from Clear Creek to Fossil Creek. This was the second day of their journey.

Canoeists on their way from Clear Creek to Fossil Creek

Soon after passing the canoeists we came to the middle and most impressive of the falls. We paused here for a short time to take pictures and listen to the roar of the water.

Middle and most impressive of the three falls

A short distance further upstream is located the third fall. We paused there to enjoy the view then posed for a group photograph.

Upper of the three falls located along this stretch of river

George used the time delay feature on my camera, mounted on his small, lightweight tripod, to take the following group photograph.

Left to right: Mery Womack, Gordon Bice, Lila Wright, Jan PreFontaine 

(front), Dolly Yapp (rear), Virginia Driscoll (middle), Daisy Williams (front), 

Donna Goodman (rear), Betty Wolters (second from rear), the author 

(second from front), Linda Tovar (front), John McInerney, George Everman 

and Jim Manning

According to my GPS the distance from the Cottonwood Safeway parking lot to Fossil Creek Road is 23 miles, the distance on Fossil Creek Road to FR 500 is 1.1 miles, the distance on FR 500 to FR 9244 is 3 miles and the distance on FR 9244 to the parking area is 1.3 miles. The actual hike distance, shown below, was only about 1.3 miles.

Showing the actual hike from the parking area to the river and back

The actual hike from the parking lot and back was 1.3 miles, the highest elevation was 3099 feet and the total ascent was 495 feet.

The included map (below) shows the route to the falls from the Fossil Creek turnoff from Hwy 260. Fossil Creek Road is shown in dark red, Forest Road 500 is shown in dark magenta and Forest Road 9244 is shown in dark yellow. The hike itself is displayed in red.

Purtymun Trail & Along the Rim

Seven Skyliners hiked Purtymun Trail up the east side of Oak Creek Canyon and continued north along the rim for approximately 1.6 miles on Saturday, 19 November 2011.

We met at the Cottonwood Safeway parking lot and proceed north on Hwy 89A, stopping in Sedona to pick up George at his home. We then continued up the canyon and parked at a wide shoulder on the road about 75 yards north of the main entrance to Junipines resort. The unmarked trailhead is between two utility buildings on the east side of the highway across from the main entrance to the resort. The trail is easily discernible if you look closely. Just scramble up the bank between the two buildings and you will see it leading on up the canyon wall. Up is the operate word here; the trail is clear and easy to follow, but it is steep, climbing some 1200 feet in just a bit less than a mile (NOTE: I have gotten various readings between 0.7 and 1 mile.).

Looking back as we neared the rim, we found a gorgeous rainbow arching across the slope below us.

Rainbow in Oak Creek Canyon as seen from high on the Purtymun Trail

When we scouted the trail about a month ago the upper portion was a bit overgrown; however, it has since been trimmed and is now in good shape all the way to the top.

The below group photograph was taken where Purtymun tops out on the rim.

Left to right: Donna Goodman, Miriam Sterling, Betty Wolters, the author, 

George Everman, Marvin Alt and David Beach

After a long break in the brisk, cold breeze at the top of the trail, we set off heading north to hike a section of the Purtymun to Cookstove Trail. From Purtymun at N34⁰ 57.725; W111⁰ 44.872 we hiked 0.5 miles bearing 65⁰ true to the first of three old road crossings at N34⁰ 58.139; W111⁰ 44.151. From there we continued for 0.2 miles at a bearing of 49⁰ to the second old road crossing at N34⁰ 58.018; W111⁰ 44.250. We then hiked another 0.2 miles at a bearing of 34⁰ to the third crossing of the old road at N34⁰ 57.725; W111⁰ 44.872. After crossing the old road for the third time, we continued at a bearing of 43⁰ for another 0.7 miles to again intersect with the same old road at N34⁰ 57.725; W111⁰ 44.872 near Crazy Park Canyon. It was now 1200, time for lunch. After a relatively short lunch break, we started our return journey. It had taken us almost three hours to get this far and we wanted to get back down Purtymun by 1500.

We had been roughly following the old Purtymun to Telephone Trail. This trail, along with a Thomas Point to Cookstove Trail and a Telephone to Cookstove Trail, is sketched out on the Arizona topographic map I am using with my GPS, but they are not discernible trails for much of the way; they are rather a series of straight lines, apparently drawn from point to point. The green line (I call it Purtymun to Cookstove.) on the included map (below) uses parts of all of these trails along with various Forest Roads. It swings away from the rim to cross Surveyor Canyon, then connects with and utilizes the National Forest road system (FR 9493A, FR 9498 and FR 9496). This results in its passing Thomas Point about a mile from the rim before swinging back to pass the Telephone trailhead just 0.2 miles from the rim. Shortly after passing the Telephone trailhead, while crossing the ridge above Grandmaw’s Cave, the forest road ends and a discernible trail begins, leading to Harding Springs Trail and continuing to end at Cookstove Trail.

In my opinion, the track we followed to our lunch stop, as shown on the attached map (and also included in the GPS file), is the best route to follow to this point. To continue from here on what I am calling the Purtymun to Cookstove Trail, I recommend following the old road from where we ate lunch, heading generally north, for 0.4 miles to N34⁰ 58.676; W111⁰ 43.609. From there it is a relatively easy 0.3 mile climb at a bearing of 71⁰ down into the upper reaches of Surveyor Canyon and back up the other side to reach FR 9493A at N34⁰ 58.765; W111⁰ 43.278.

Purtymun Trail itself (below), from Hwy 89A to the rim, is xxx-miles one way; it has a maximum elevation of 6371 feet and a total ascent of 1318 feet.

Purtymun Trail as it climbs the east wall of Oak Creek Canyon

The included map (below) shows all of the trails we have hiked along the east rim of Oak Creek Canyon, including a recent scouting hike from the Willard Springs area to Thomas Point and back.

Today’s hike was only about 4.5 miles roundtrip; however the first mile (Purtymun Trail proper) was very strenuous and took around 1.5 hours each way. The total elevation gain for the hike was about 1500 feet, and we were on the trail for a total of about 6 hours.

Soldier Pass to Brins Mesa

On 12 November 2011 the Skyliners hiked Soldier Pass Trail to Brins Mesa. We gathered at the Safeway parking lot in Cottonwood and carpooled from there, following Hwy 89A to Sedona, turning left to follow Soldier Pass Road for 1.5 miles and then right to follow Rim Shadows Dr and Shadows Canyon Drive for another 0.2 miles to the gated entry to the trailhead parking lot on the left. Note that Rim Shadows Drive turns sharply left before reaching the gate to the trailhead; just proceed straight ahead at this point on Canyon Shadows Drive and you will find the gate on the left about 70 yards ahead.

Leaving the parking lot we hiked across a wash and a short distance up the slope on the other side to arrive at the intersection with Jordan and Teacup Trails (right). Just a little further along we came to Devil’s Kitchen and paused on its rim for a group photograph. George used the time delay feature on my camera, and “Wally,” a small, lightweight tripod with flexible legs that can wrap around tree limbs for the shot.

Left to right: Gordon Bice, George Everman, Lila Wright, John Wright, 

Daisy Williams, Jon Lloyd, Ellis Price and Kwi Johnson – at Devil’s Kitchen

Devil’s Kitchen is a rather impressive sinkhole located a short distance from the trailhead. Except for the large fallen rocks, it is much like the sinkholes caused by the dissolution of underlying limestone familiar to me from my youth in East Tennessee. Wikipedia provides the following information on the subject of sinkholes:

A sinkhole, also known as a sink, shake hole, swallow hole, swallet, doline or cenote, is a natural depression or hole in the Earth's surface caused by karst processes — the chemical dissolution of carbonate rocks or suffosion processes for example in sandstone. Sinkholes may vary in size from 1 to 600 meters (3.3 to 2,000 ft) both in diameter and depth, and vary in form from soil-lined bowls to bedrock-edged chasms. Sinkholes may be formed gradually or suddenly, and are found worldwide. The different terms for sinkholes are often used interchangeably.¹

Devil’s Kitchen sinkhole

From Devil’s Kitchen it is just a short distance on along the trail to the Seven Sacred Pools. Some sources refer to these as Apache Seven Pools and indicate that they were sacred to the Apache. The pools were not very impressive today; some had been partly filled in with accumulated rocks and, while they did contain water, no water was running between the pools.

At the Seven Sacred Pools – by Jon Lloyd

Continuing on up the canyon from the pools we could see the arches to our right; we stopped for a brief rest and a snack just below Brins Mesa.

When we reached the mesa where Soldier Pass Trail ends at the intersection with Brins Mesa Trail, my GPS showed that we had hiked just over 2.1 miles from the parking lot. (NOTE: See related comment in the last paragraph of this report.) At that point we turned southeast and followed Brins Mesa Trail for about 0.75 miles to the edge of the mesa and then turned northeast to follow an unmarked trail for close to 0.9 miles to the summit (summit of Brins Mesa) for lunch. I found one map that identified the trail we followed to the summit as “Brins Summit.” No signs are posted; however the trail is easy to follow. When we reached the summit the wind was brisk and it was a little chilly on this November day, but we were rewarded with awe-inspiring views in all directions. Jon took several photographs from our vantage point.

Looking back down on Brins Mesa – by Jon Lloyd

Looking down from Brims Mesa – by Jon

I managed to find a cozy spot well sheltered from the wind and settled in for lunch and my traditional noon nap; Gordon did likewise. After lunch we hiked another hundred yards to the highest point on the mesa and then headed back the way we had come.

George posing on the summit of Brins Mesa – by Jon Lloyd

Taken on the way back from Brins mesa summit – by Jon Lloyd

After some discussion as to the possibility of taking another route back to the cars, we chose to return the way we had come. However a later look at the map indicates that the distance would have been approximately the same had we continued southeast on Brins Mesa Trail and taken Cibola Pass Trail and then Jordan Trail back. These are both shown on the Arizona topo map I use.

On the way back down Soldier Pass Trail we stopped for a brief rope climbing demonstration by John Wright. Lila has decided that we should start carrying a 50-foot length of rope with us on our hikes for use in emergencies.

My GPS gave a reading of 7.5 miles for this round trip hike, but when I downloaded the track to my computer and examined track properties the distance was shown as only 6.1 miles. Track properties on my computer also gave me 1.7 miles for the length of Soldier Pass Trail while the Forest service map provides a figure of 2.4 miles and I had measured it as about 2.15 miles. After considering all of this conflicting information, I used 2.15 as the length of Soldier Pass Trail and adjusted all of the other distances provided in the first paragraph of this report accordingly.

I consider this an easy hike. The elevation change from the trailhead to the summit of Brins Mesa is only around 1000 feet and the climb is gradual with a relatively few exceptions.

1 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sinkhole

Indian Ruins at Mullican Canyon

On 28 October 2011 nine Skyliners hiked to the Indian Ruins at Mullican Canyon. The below group picture was taken at the ruins.

Left to right: Betty Wolters, Dolly Yapp, George Everman, Ellis Price, Daisy 

Williams, Marvin Alt, Miriam Sterling, Lila Wright and Donna Goodman

We all met at the Safeway parking lot and drove through Cornville to interstate 17.  We then drove north on I-17 to Exit 306 and turned off on Stoneman Lake Road.  The spot where we parked for the hike is seventeen miles from I-17 on mostly dirt roads.  From I-17 we followed Stoneman Lake Road east for 6.4 miles until we came to a T.  At the T we turned right on FR 922 and followed it for about 1.6 miles before making a 90-degree right turn onto FR 644.  We followed FR 644 for 9.3 miles, passing Mullican Place Tank and Three-Jim Tank on the way, before parking just after the road crosses a shallow wash.  The location is at N34⁰43’ 35.84” W111⁰39’ 47.58”.

The topographic map we were using in the GPS showed three weirs, used long ago to measure stream flow, along the course of our travels.  Two of these are located along FR 644, the first at Three-Jim Tank and the second just a short distance down stream from the tank.  The third weir is shown by the map to be located along the wash we followed between FR 644 and Mullican Canyon where the ruins are located.  We never found any sign of the third weir, not even the remains of a foundation and were left to wonder whether the map entry might have been an error.

For those who are curious, a weir can be described as “… a small overflow dam used to alter the flow characteristics of a river or stream. In most cases weirs take the form of a barrier across the river that causes water to pool behind the structure (not unlike a dam), but allows water to flow over the top. Weirs are commonly used to alter the flow regime of the river, prevent flooding, measure discharge and to help render a river navigable.¹”

After parking we followed the wash downstream, first along the bank, then entering the wash itself when the going become easier there.  It is approximately 0.95 miles from the road to the Indian ruins.  They are located atop an outcropping, separated from the canyon wall proper by an abandoned meander (rincon).  Part of the ruins can be seen directly ahead as you proceed down the side canyon formed by the wash you are in toward its junction with Mullican Canyon. As you approach them look carefully to the north face of the side canyon you are in.  About 100 yards before you reach the ruins look carefully and you will find distinctive Indian drawings located high on the north wall of the wash.

Indian drawing

Indian Drawing

These drawings don’t just jump out at you unless the sun is exactly right; however, they are visible at any time if you look closely.  As for me, I hiked this way twice before I finally noted them.

A section of the Indian ruins can be seen atop the outcropping shown here. 

Note the man-made rock wall running along the periphery

At the foot of the outcropping on which the ruins are located lies a deep pool of water.  The side canyon (or wash) we have been traveling down is at this point almost perfectly parallel to Mullican Canyon.  At one time the stream apparently flowed to the left of the outcropping into Mullican Canyon further downstream.  It has since been diverted by some geological event that allowed it to break through and flow to the right of the outcropping, spilling directly into Mullican Canyon.

Deep pool at the foot of the outcropping containing the Indian ruins 

– overflow from the pool is directly into Mullican Canyon through the 

opening visible to the right

To reach the ruins it is necessary to climb along the face of the canyon, crossing above the pool, and enter the abandoned meander (rincon).  From there it is possible, although difficult, to climb up to the peak of the outcropping where the ruins are located.  In the photograph below hikers are shown navigating the perilous route along the canyon wall toward the meander.

Hikers are shown climbing along the canyon wall above the pool – the 

shoulder of the outcropping containing the ruins is visible to the right 

– the saddle between the canyon wall and the outcropping is the old 

stream course, or “abandoned meander.”

The most direct route on up to the ruins is to climb up the steep, rocky slope as soon as you reach the meander.  A somewhat easier climb is possible a few yards further down the meander; however, undergrowth makes those few yards almost impassable.  Any path you choose is a steep, perilous climb requiring great care to avoid slipping.  But the reward is great once you reach the ruins.

Looking on down Mullican Canyon from the ruins we could see its confluence with Rarick Canyon 0.8 miles to the west.  Later reference to an online map, disclosed that I-17 at the closest point lies just 1.2 miles to the northwest across Mullican and Rarick Canyons from the ruins.  But, as the saying goes, you can’t get there from here.

It was still rather early for lunch and we had stopped for a snack on the way down the wash, so I wasn’t very hungry.  While the rest of the group looked around the ruins and ate lunch, I seized the opportunity for a good nap.  I was sound asleep when George awakened me.

Before starting back we paused for the group photograph shown at the beginning of this report.  George took the shot using my camera on time delay.  Then after carefully climbing back down the steep, rocky slope to the old meander and making our way along the canyon wall above the pool, we started rock hopping our way back up the wash toward our waiting vehicles.

Climbing back along the canyon wall above the pool on our way up the 

wash, shown directly ahead – photograph by George on a previous hike

Having noting that FR 644, the road we had driven in on, continued along the hill above and generally parallel to the wash we were following, we decided to climb out of the wash at the first good opportunity and make our way up the slope to the road.  It would appear to be a much easier hike than continuing along the rocky bed of the wash, and so it was.  Using a GPS to find the most direct route we soon arrived at the road about half a mile from our cars.

Although we were parked to the east of where we entered the road (FR 644) we saw some artifacts about 200 yards in the other direction and went that way to investigate.  What we found were the remains of an old corral and another weir located in a wash at the end of FR 644.  The below photograph was taken from just upstream of the weir looking over it into the chasm the stream had formed on its way to Mullican Canyon.

Photograph taken from the bed of the wash located at the end of FR 644. 

The walkway runs along the top of the weir. From there the stream 

drops sharply into a deep chasm on its way to the canyon below

Examining the weir: Marvin alt (partial at top), Dolly Yapp, Lila Wright 

and George Everman

The total hiking distance was only about 1.9 miles.  However, that is somewhat deceptive because the going is rough, except for the part of the return trip that was along FR 644.  The wash is rocky and requires stepping carefully all the way to avoid sprained ankles and falls, several places require climbing over or around steep ledges in the streambed, the climb along the canyon wall above the pool is quite perilous and the final climb to the ruins is steep and rocky.

This is a moderately difficult hike overall with a few very difficult areas; it is not for those with weak ankles or those who do not like a little rock climbing.  Some of the rough hiking in the streambed can be avoided by parking at the spot where we rejoined FR 644 at N34⁰ 43’29.92”; N111⁰ 40’15.07” and hiking north to join the wash closer to the ruins.

An Alternative Hike to the Indian Ruins

A good alternative to parking where we did for this hike is to park instead at 3-Jim Tank. Weir Number 1 is located there in the same wash that we followed on this hike to reach the ruins at its juncture with Mullican Canyon. It is just farther upstream and the hike is thus a bit longer. As compensation for the longer hike you can investigate the remains of the extensive water measuring system once installed along the wash. Weir Number 1 is, as noted previously in this report, only the first of three weirs once in place along the wash. Number 2 is between 3-Jim Tank and the place where we parked for today's hike; A Weir Number 3 was apparently once located between there and Mullican Canyon, but no longer exists. The weir featured in today's hike report is located in an entirely different wash that empties into Mullican Canyon at a different point. Some of the artifacts and sites to be seen along this alternative hike to the ruins are shown in these four photographs (below).

Weir Number 1

A well-constructed hunter's blind located near Weir Number 1

In the wash below Weir Number 1, approaching Weir Number 2

Weir Number 2

As previously noted, Weir Number 3 no longer exists, and we were left wondering if it ever did.

The included map (below) shows the immediate area of this hike. Interstate 17 is visible running diagonally across the upper left corner. The dirt road running between I-17 and Rarick Canyon is Beaver Creek Road. The blue line on the map is the route we took from our cars down the wash to the ruins at Mullican Canyon. The yellow line shows our return route including the side trip to the unnamed weir. The green line shows the last bit of our drive in from I-17.

To hike to the ruins by way of weirs 1 and 2, just park at 3-Jim Tank and follow the blue track shown on the included map down the wash.

1 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weir