I
left Cottonwood on 28 February for a visit to Washington, DC. My
excuse for making the trip was that Diana could use some help in
getting settled into her new apartment. She had been forced to move
from her long time dwelling in Takoma Park, MD and, wishing neither
to purchase a house nor to move into a large apartment complex, she
finally settled on a very small apartment attached to a single family
home. The new apartment, just a few blocks from her old place, was
still still conveniently located for transportation back and forth to
her employment in DC. However, it was very small and required some
downsizing as well as the installation of various shelves and hooks
and a judicious use of IKEA furniture to suitably separate the small
space into separate living, sleeping and kitchen areas.
Because I had not
traveled by train in more than 50 years, I thought that I would give
it another try and travel by Amtrak. This would entail either
arising very early in the morning to meet a 0541 scheduled departure
from Flagstaff or staying in Flagstaff overnight. That was not a
hard decision and Rosemary drove me to Flagstaff on the afternoon of
the 27th. We had an early dinner in the city and then
drove around for awhile looking for the Aspen Innsuites where I had
made a reservation. The motel turned out to be further from the
Amtrak Station than I had been led to believe, but the facility did
provide free taxi transportation, so that was not a problem. The
motel itself was reasonable priced and very comfortable.
The
next morning I was awake and waiting in the lobby when the taxi
arrived, right on time, to transport me to the station. When time
came to board, the conductor showed me to my seat and we left
Flagstaff right on time. I was traveling coach class and had been
placed in an aisle seat. The window seat in that row was occupied by
another gentleman traveling, according to the ticket placed above the
seats, all the way to Chicago. I was to change trains in Chicago and
thus had the same seat all the way there. The man in the window seat
and I barely exchanged greetings before he departed for the lounge
car and I never saw him again.
As
it was still dark when I boarded, I settled in and dozed most of the
way across Arizona, barely aware of stops at Winslow and Holbrook.
It was just after 0800 when we crossed into New Mexico and I
remembered to look for traces of water in the Puerco River which runs
through the same pass used by the Interstate Highway and the
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad (now the Burlington Northern
and Santa Fe Railway). The Puerco River, not to be confused with the
Rio Puerco, runs southwest and drains into the Little Colorado at
Holbrook. Rio Puerco, on the other hand originates in northern New
Mexico on the eastern side of the continental divide and drains into
the Rio Grande at Contreres, NM south of Albuquerque. As I always
have, the many times I have traveled this way by automobile, I did
see water; however, I am sure I will look again when next passing
this way because it just seems so unlikely.
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| Water in the Puerco River near Gallup, NM |
When
we entered New Mexico, the sun was shining brightly, but by the time
we reached Gallup, the sky was slightly overcast. Others may be
enthralled by historic downtown Gallup, especially such landmarks
along old Route 66 as the El Rancho Hotel. As for me, thinking of
Gallup brings to mind the colorful hillside homes located north of
downtown.
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| Colorful homes north of downtown Gallup, NM |
After
leaving Gallup I became aware of a lively discussion between a man
and a woman concerning the differences between the European and
American knitting techniques. The subject was boring to me but, as I
said the conversation was lively and it served as background while I
gazed out the window at the high desert scenery on the way to
Albuquerque.
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| High desert between Gallup and Albuquerque |
We
stopped briefly in Albuquerque and I saw the area from a new
perspective. I spent a lot of time in the city while I was still
working, always traveling by automobile. Now, arriving by train, I
had trouble recognizing buildings that were previously very familiar
to me. At the station itself a few traders were set up, but didn't
seem to be doing much business.
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| The Amtrak Station in Albuquerque |
Leaving
Albuquerque, we traveled up the valley east of and parallel to the
Rio Grande, passing through the Indian Pueblos located between
Albuquerque and Santa Fe. However, we turned away from the Rio
Grande and headed east before reaching Santa Fe, stopping at Lamy
just south of the capitol city.
There
was a short delay at Lamy to evict a passenger due to a ticketing
problem. It seems that a male passenger without identification was
traveling with a ticket purchased for a female. The police took him
away and we were soon moving again.
 |
Lamy (Santa Fe) Amtrak Station
|
From
Lamy the railroad continues northeast through Glorieta, swings south
around the foot of the Santa Fe Mountains then turns northeast again
to pass through Las Vegas, NM and on to Raton at the Colorado border.
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| Las Vegas, NM Amtrak Station – Hotel Castenada |
It
was near sundown when we arrived at Raton.
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| Raton, NM at sundown |
It
had taken us a full day to travel through half of Arizona (from
Flagstaff) and New Mexico to the Colorado border just north of Raton.
We would pass through Colorado and Kansas at night.
I
had dinner with a gay couple, I will call them Ernest and Joe, who
were on a long-delayed vacation. They were an interesting couple who
had been together for ten years and this trip was in celebration of
that. Joe was responsible for his mother and when he and Ernest
formed their relationship, insisted that she must live with them. At
first this was a real problem as Joe traveled extensively for work
and Ernest worked at home. Soon, however, the mother found that she
and Ernst had similar opinions as to what was good for her son and
Joe found that they were teaming up against him. He appeared to be a
bit irritated, but mostly amused, by this turn of events.
I
went to sleep soon after dinner and was only vaguely aware when we
arrived in Dodge City, at about 0030. After a few more hours of
rather fitful sleep, I awoke in Kansas City at about 0700 to a cloudy
and rather dreary day. Thankfully we had no precipitation and there
was no snow on the ground as we rolled through the Missouri
countryside.
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| The Missouri countryside on a dreary March day |
We
rolled through La Plata, MO and, tiring of the bleak landscape, I
became engrossed in a mystery that I had loaded on my Kindle before
leaving home.
I
must have dozed off because the next thing I remember is awakening to
hear a Vietnam Era sniper telling the tale of how he learned,
apparently as part of his deadly craft, how to “go to another
place” in his mind. He now used that ability to make himself fall
asleep at night. His wife, on the other hand claimed that all the
snoring emanating from his “other place” kept her awake, so she
slept in another room. He said that was alright with him because,
although he really loved her, he never missed her when he was
sleeping in his “other place.”
By
the time the sniper had finished his story we had left Missouri
behind and were in Fort Madison, Iowa.
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| Fort Madison, Iowa Amtrak Station |
Leaving
the Fort Madison station, we traveled alongside the Mississippi
River for awhile then crossed into Illinois.
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| The Mississippi River at Fort Madison, Iowa |
We
now had only two more stops, Galesburg and Mendota, before Chicago's
Union Station.
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| Galesburg, Illinois Amtrak Station |
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| Mendota, Illinois Amtrak Station |
We had a scheduled 3
hour and 25 minute layover in Chicago and the departing train was
about an hour late. We left at 1940. By the time I had finished
dinner and read a few chapters in the book I was reading on my
Kindle, it was time for lights out and we settled in to sleep. I was
bothered for awhile by two loudmouths holding an animated
conversation from opposite sides of the car. Finally tiring of the
noise, I reminded them that the conductor had announced that any
persons wishing to talk after lights out should retire to the lounge
car. Although not with good grace, they did comply, perhaps
remembering the treatment afforded the non-compliant customer with
the ticketing problem at Lamy.
The next day was
largely a blur as we swept through the snow-patched countryside. I
spent most of the day reading, interrupted occasionally by a brief
stop at one of the stations along the way, most of which I ignored.
I am not sure exactly
what drew my attention at Cumberland, MD. Perhaps because there was
an extra stop for the engineers to change shifts.
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| Stopped at Cumberland, MD |
Martinsburg sported an
interesting brick building that might once have been a hotel but does
not appear to be used as such now.
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| Amtrak stop in Cumberland, MD |
A magnified view of the
sign shown at the left in the above photograph is also shown here
(right). The events described in
the sign certainly give the area some historical significance.
Finally, who could fail
to note Harper's Ferry? George Washington located a federal arsenal
here, at the original trading post, in 1798. When abolotionist John
Brown tried to seize the arsenal in 1859, Colonel Robert E. Lee
rushed troops to the site by train. This is said to have been the
first use of a railroad for military purposes.
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| Harpers Ferry – where Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland meet |
On arrival at Union
Station in Washington, DC, I was to transfer to the Metro System for
the ride to Takoma Park. The station announcements were completely
illegible, requiring advance information to be understood. Thanks to
the kindness of strangers, I found my way to the correct train
anyway.
Diana had intended to
pick me up at the Metro station, but our schedules didn't match, so
her friend Melissa, along with Melissa's son Levi, picked me up and I
hung out with until Diana arrived. We then all went to dinner before
parting company.
Diana's new apartment
turned out to be, as she had said, quite small. It is, however,
quite adequate for one person and has the advantage of a large yard
to putter in, with room for bird feeders.
I was tired after my
three-day train trip and had no trouble sleeping. The next morning I
awakened to find everything covered with a white blanket of snow. I
snapped the below photograph and settled in for an early morning nap.
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| I was greeted by snow on my first morning at Diana's |
Although it was Monday
morning, Diana had the day off because of the snowstorm, so we just
hung around, played with our computers and discussed all the projects
we were putting off. This was the first of two snow days that she
had off during my stay and we thoroughly enjoyed both of them.
The next day Diana went
back to work and I alternated between napping and doing some work on
the apartment. Diana had brought the pickup down from its normal
domicile in Pennsylvania and I used that for frequent trips to Ace
Hardware for supplies.
We installed shelves,
hung folding chairs on the wall to save floor space, installed a
glass shelf over the bathroom wash basin, mounted a folding table in
the kitchen and assembled and installed several drawers in the Ikea
room divider.
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| Ikea furniture along the wall and room divider setting off the sleeping area |
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| Ikea room divider used to set off sleeping area |
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| Kitchen – note folding table and hanging chairs on left wall |
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Bathroom – note glass shelf above sink. You can't see it of course, but the
toilet roll holder is mounted on the inside of the sink cabinet door. |
We now felt that it was
time to rest from our labors and started by playing with our
computers.
Diana and her cranky
cat are shown relaxing here (left).
The cat sometimes comes around begging for attention and then slaps
you when you pet her. Once, when I had interrupted her nap, she came
all the way across the room and slapped me before returning to her
spot.
I had my own very
comfortable corner (right) with a
couch to sit and sleep on and a table set up for my computer and
other gear. We had just completed hanging the picture shown here and
installing the three lights shown. The lights, by the way, were made
from old chicken feeders that Diana dug up somewhere.
We had made pretty good
progress and decided it was time for an outing. Diana suggested that
we visit Great Falls National Park, an 800-acre park just a few miles
from the Capitol. Here the Potomac River flows through Mather Gorge,
building up speed as it flows over a series of steep, jagged rocks,
dropping around 80 feet in one mile.
Largely at the
instigation of George Washington to make the Potomac River navigable
as far as the Ohio River Valley, the Great Falls were bypassed by the
Patowmack Canal, one of five skirting canals built along the river.
The Patowmack opened to traffic in 1802 and folded in 1828, turning
over its assets to the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal.
We parked and walked
along a section of the old canal to the well-developed and
extensively-used falls viewing areas.
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| A lock on the old Patowmack Canal |
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| Great Falls at Mather Gorge on the Potomac River |
Bundled up in our warm
coats, we sipped coffee and watched the other tourists. One father
was having a particularly hard time controlling his toddler son who,
despite the cold day, insisted on wading in a mudhole. Diana is
shown here (left) clutching her
coffee as she watched.
There are a few seats
located in the viewing area and we were lucky enough to find an empty
one from which we could look out over the roaring water and watch a
pair of Cormorants soaring in the distance (right).
After our Great Falls
outing we decided it was time to work on installing bird feeders, so
we made another trip to Ace Hardware for bird seed and then placed
the feeders Diana had collected at strategic locations in the yard.
Three of the feeders, two of them on a common post, are shown below.
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| Three bird feeders one at left, two on a common post at right |
We had not long to wait
for customers, we had hardly finished before our first customer, a
handsome cardinal, arrived. He was followed soon after by one of the
many squirrels who had been watching and waiting in the wings.
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| Cardinal |
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| Squirrel |
Finally, we hung a
basket of flowers outside the door, trimmed the evergreen tree so as
to be able to see the feeders from the kitchen window and installed a
few solar-powered yard lights.
It was now time to
return to Arizona and I had decided that the coach trip by train to
DC would last me for another 50 years. I checked on returning by
sleeper car, found that no tickets were available and arranged to fly
home. I had purchased a round-trip ticket on Amtrak and found that
the refund for the return portion would more than pay for my airfare.
I wound up in Phoenix instead of Flagstaff, but in either case I
would take the shuttle to Camp Verde where Rosemary would pick me up.
