Saturday, February 25, 2012

89A to Lime Kiln Trail via Spring Creek


Twelve Skyliner hikers left the Safeway parking lot at 0800 on Saturday, 25 February 2012 for a hike along Spring Creek Wash. We drove north on Hwy 89A toward the Spring Creek bridge, turning on Spring Creek Ranch Road (a little-used road leading into an aborted (or at least delayed) housing development and parking just off the highway. From there we hiked 0.4 miles north along the east side of Hwy 89A to enter the wash at the bridge, crossing three fences along the way. As we followed the wash under the highway we noted a well-constructed bird nest tucked neatly under the bridge. I am not entirely sure what sort of bird built it; however it looked much like the owl’s nest that used to be located just above the main entrance to the local hospital. We saw no birds anywhere near.

Bird nest under the Hwy 89A bridge over Spring Creek Wash
We passed on under the bridge and continued up the wash, following cow paths along the side when possible. That is some of us followed the cow paths, others preferred the added exercise of hopping from rock to rock and just continued along the bed of the wash. I prefer the cow paths myself although, I must admit, the cows are prone to make their trails under low hanging bushes at times … good for brushing off flies if you are a cow, but sometimes difficult for hikers to navigate.

Soon after we left the bridge the walls on both sides of the wash grew higher and those of us following the paths along the bank had to cross over often when the stream bed veered too close to the wall. We continued in this manner for more than two miles before the wash widened and there was room for walking on both sides; even then some persisted in walking along the stream bed. About a mile before we came to our goal, the point where Lime Kiln Trail crosses Spring Creek Wash, we started to encounter dirt roads used by ranchers, campers and hunters. These roads played tag with the wash, approaching and veering away again, occasionally crossing over.

As we approached Lime Kiln Trail, we came to a fairly large herd of cattle, perhaps thirty or more, who seemed to have mixed emotions about interacting with humans. At first they appeared excited to see us, perhaps thinking that we were bringing something to eat. However, when we came closer, they hoisted their tails and scampered off.

Now on the east side of Spring Creek Wash, we hiked on past the point where Coffee Creek dumps into it, then crossed over and followed a dirt road up the west bank until we reached the Lime Kiln Trail markers. Finding ourselves a little distance west of the wash, we followed Lime Kiln Trail east until we crossed back over to the other side and found a nice spot for lunch. It was a little early, but we had just done a pretty strenuous 3.5-mile hike along a rocky wash, I had found a nice spot of grass (right, photo by George), and I didn’t hear anyone complain that they were not yet hungry enough to eat.

George seized the opportunity to pose us for our group photograph after my nap.

Left to right: George Everman (kneeling), the author, Donna Goodman, 
Jan Prefontaine, Daisy Williams (kneeling), Marvin Alt, Jim Manning, 
Colleen Maktenieks, Dolly Yapp (kneeling), Anita Jackson, 
Akemi Tomioka (kneeling) and Mary Gavan
We then packed up and headed back down the wash; this time taking the dirt road on the east side of the wash for a short distance.

The trip back was uneventful and we made very good time, although we did stop twice for short rest periods. Along the way, George found a gardening tool, carefully hidden in a tree near the trail. Donna examined it carefully (right, photo by George) and I thought she might be considering taking it home with her. We couldn't understand why anyone would have hidden it so carefully in the middle of nowhere. Were they using it to clear the trail? Perhaps the saw would have been useful for that, but this was not the sort of trail one used a rake to clear. In the end, George carefully replaced it where he had found it.

The hike was about 7 miles round trip. My GPS said 6.99 miles when we returned, Mary’s read just a bit higher, and the track when downloaded to the computer measured 6.4 miles. I have no explanation for the discrepancies. Elevation gain was negligible with only around 150 feet difference between the bridge at Hwy 89A and Lime Kiln Trail. I was back home just after 1400.

On the included map (below). today’s hike is shown in red; the blue line shows a section of Lime Kiln Trail.





Saturday, February 18, 2012

Apache Maid Trail


Seventeen Skyliner hikers set out to hike on Bell and Apache Maid Trails the bright, sunny morning of 18 February 2012. Hikers from Cottonwood met at the Safeway parking lot and carpooled to the Bell Trailhead; those coming from Sedona met us there.

Apache Maid Trailhead is located a little short of three miles up the trail from the Bell Trailhead at Beaver Creek Ranger Station. A parking lot (large but often filled) is located at the Bell Trailhead. To reach it take I-17 to exit 298 (Hwy 179/FR 618), otherwise known as the Sedona Interchange. From I-17 take FR 618 east for 1.5 miles to the Beaver Creek Ranger Station turnoff (FR 618A). Turn left and proceed 0.25 miles to parking area and trailhead. If the lot is full, turn around and go back about 0.25 miles toward I-17 on FR 618 and then turn right to park at the Bell Trail Overflow Parking Lot. You will have seen the sign on the way in. Toilet facilities are provided at both parking lots.

Don’t’ even think about hiking on Bell Trail unless you want a lot of company. It must be one of the most popular trails in the state. I have never been on it without seeing several other hikers. Once George and I came upon a Mexican lady struggling up the trail carrying half a watermelon on a silver platter. She was taking it along as refreshment for her family while they frolicked at the swimming hole. Apache Maid, which starts about three miles from the parking lot, is another matter. This is the second time I have hiked on it without meeting anyone along the way.

Bell Trail after leaving the parking lot on an old roadbed approaches and then follows northeast along Wet Beaver Creek. Soon a school (Southwestern Academy, Beaver Creek Ranch Campus) comes into view across the creek.

Perhaps a half-mile from the parking lot we came to the Bruce Brockett Trailhead. I was told that this trail leads to the Bell Trail overflow parking lot. According to the sign the lot is named Bruce Brockett.
That would mean that the hiking distance would be approximately the same whether one parked at the main trailhead or the overflow lot. The photograph shown here (right) was taken on the return trip and shows Bruce Brockett Trail leading up the bank to the right. It is not shown on any maps that I have seen, so I suppose it is relatively new.

To our right as we continued along the trail, the remains of an old irrigation system were to be seen between the trail and the creek. 

In places the system was just a ditch or canal.

Ditch or canal - part of irrigation system
In other places it seems to have been constructed of plastic pipe.

Plastic pipe - part of irrigation system
And even corrugated piping of the sort that is commonly used for highway culverts.

Corrugated piping - part of irrigation system
The section of the system that was composed of just a ditch (or canal) was unlined but in some places appears to have been reinforced by the installation of metal sheeting on the lower side.  

Reinforced section of open ditch
The system seems to have been abandoned several years ago.

Just under a mile along the trail we came to a petroglyph-covered rock beside the trail. Some of the markings look suspiciously recent in origin. Whether others were actually made by Indians I cannot say, but I think they probably were.

Petroglyph-covered rock
About another 0.8 miles along the trail we came to a trailhead marked White Mesa Trail (left). I have never been on this trail; however others have told me that it only goes a short distance up on the mesa and ends.

Shortly after passing the White Mesa Trailhead, we came to some Indian ruins located alongside the trail and overlooking the creek just a few yards away. Located as they are alongside the trail, which itself follows an old road, they ruins have been picked over and pretty much destroyed. About the most impressive thing that I saw along the abandoned roadway was what is left of an old pit house.

Ruins of an old pit house
Not more than half a mile beyond the Indian ruins, we came to the Apache Maid Trailhead and stopped for a snack. Apache Maid leads up to the Mogollon Rim from here while Bell Trail continues along Wet Beaver Creek, and some of our hikers wanted to go farther on Bell Trail rather than climb to the rim.

Apache Maid does look pretty scary from the bottom when standing at Bell Trail looking up to the rim high above. After some discussion, we split into two groups, a member of each group carrying a walkie-talkie, and agreed to meet back at this point at 1300. The walkie-talkies are a recent acquisition by the Skyliners and we were trying them out on this hike. We have found that as the number of hikers has grown, we often have a need to break into two groups and this gives us a way to keep in touch in the event one of the groups encounters a problem.
Before parting ways, we paused for the obligatory group picture.

Left to right: George Everman (kneeling), Jim Manning, Jan Prefontaine 
(kneeling), Daisy Williams (kneeling), Connie Woolard, the author 
(kneeling), Bill Woolard, Terri Johnson, Jan Johnson, Dolly Yapp 
(kneeling), Lila Wright, Jo Benkendorf, Akemi Tomioka (kneeling), 
David Beach, Becky Fowski, Mary Gavan and Karl Buckendahl
I hiked with the group going to the rim on Apache Maid Trail. It is in good shape all the way to the top and, as we had found out by hiking the entire length of the trail starting at the base of Apache Maid Mountain just a few weeks ago, the rest of Apache Maid is also in pretty good condition. I was struck by the consistent grade of the trail, accomplished by use of a lot of switchbacks. It hardly varied all the way to the top. At the rim we encountered a weathered sign (left) discouraging hikers from continuing beyond this point. Those of us who had recently hiked the trail thought it a bit misleading. Our experience was that it is relatively easy to follow the entire length of the trail just by paying attention to the wire-bound cairns placed along the way.

We had arrived at the top with plenty of time left to eat lunch and have a quick nap before heading back to meet the others at the junction with Bell Trail. I, of course, quickly dispensed with lunch and settled in for my nap (right), first unpacking and donning my windbreaker; it was a little breezy on the rim. I slept a good thirty minutes before being awakened by the noise of my cellphone alarm sounding. After I got home, George sent me a picture, taken by Akemi during my nap.

The views on the way up to the rim and from the top were the highlights of this hike for me. A couple of shots are shown below.

The San Francisco Peaks from Apache Trail at the edge of the Mogollon Rim
Looking down Wet Beaver Creek, across Southwestern Academy and 
on the distant mountains
The hike turned out to be only a little over eight miles (GPS reading) instead of the ten miles I had estimated. The section of Apache Maid that we hiked was 1.8 miles by GPS with an elevation gain of 1100 feet. The section of Bell Trail that we hiked to get to Apache Maid is essentially flat with around a 100-foot elevation gain.

Historical Note:

Hike Arizona.com (http://hikearizona.com/decoder.php?ZTN=384) presents two possible sources for the name Apache Maid: One is that troops, fighting Indians here in 1873, killed an Apache woman and took her baby with them to the fort at Camp Verde. This is coupled with an account that a young Apache girl came to the area with troops from Camp Verde in 1874 and that the mountain was named after her. Acceptance of this possibility thus requires the assumption that the “baby” taken to Camp Verde by the troops the year before was actually a young girl. The second possible source presented is that Apache Maid was named after a lost and starving young Apache girl who was adopted by one of the early settlers.

See the included map (below) for a track of this hike.


Saturday, February 11, 2012

Searching for Indian Ruins above Badger Springs


The Skyliners set out to explore Indian ruins we had been told are located on the mesa above Badger Springs Wash. We drove to Camp Verde and took I-17 south about 30 miles to Exit 256, the Badger Springs Exit. After exiting we turned back under the southbound lanes of the freeway and drove east on Badger Springs Road, crossing under the northbound lanes after about 0.4 miles, and continued for another 0.5 miles before turning the right to follow a road down Badger Springs Wash. Approximately 0.1 miles down the wash we came to a toilet, apparently installed and serviced as part of the Agua Fria National Monument.

We paused while those who felt the urge utilized the facilities and then, instead of following the well-worn trail on down the wash to the Agua Fria River, turned to climb the west slope of the wash to the mesa above. We had been told that the ruins we sought were located near the juncture of the wash with the river, but that they were best approached from the mesa. The path we followed was well marked for a short distance but grew ever fainter until, near the top, it vanished completely. The going was nevertheless not too difficult, just a bit rocky and with scattered cactus. We hiked along on top of the mesa, heading southeast toward where we believed the ruins were located. When we thought we were nearing the ruins we cut back to follow closely along the rim so as not to miss them. Conspicuously missing was any sign of Indian ruins.

Although we still hadn't seen any ruins, we did have a spectacular view of the Badger Springs Wash with the Agua Fria River, and before continuing our search, we paused to enjoy the view and take a photograph (below).


Junction of Badger Springs Wash with Agua Fria River – seen from the 
mesa above the was
We continued along the rim for about another 0.2 miles before deciding that we had either missed the ruins or they were a myth. Declining to waste any more time searching, we turned and headed back along the rim looking for a good place to descend into the wash. Our plan was to eat lunch at the mouth of Badger springs Wash.

Part of the group thought that the point where we had originally approached the rim looked like a favorable point to descend, others wanted to go back farther and look for an easier descent, so we broke into two groups. This would anyway give us a chance to test two walkie-talkies provided by David Nelson. The Skyliners had decided to purchase a pair for use in just such circumstances and David was able to provide, for a test, a ten-year old pair of the model we are considering.

The way down the hillside (perhaps I should say Cliffside) into the wash was steep and rocky. However, with care it was navigated successfully and we were soon enough walking down the sandy bottom of the wash toward its junction with the river. There we stopped to look at hieroglyphics visible on the canyon wall and wait for the group who were searching for an easier descent into the wash. All the while, successfully keeping in touch in touch by use of the walkie-talkies.

Although I had been this way before without seeing he hieroglyphics, they are really quite prominent once one knows to look for them. I took four different photographs (below) while we waited for the rest of the party to join us for lunch at the junction of Badger Springs Wash and Aqua Fria River.

Photograph 1 - junction of Badger Springs Wash with Agua Fria River
Photograph 2 - junction of Badger Springs Wash with Agua Fria River
Photograph 3 - junction of Badger Springs Wash with Agua Fria River
Photograph 4 - junction of Badger Springs Wash with Agua Fria River
We settled in at the junction for the better part of an hour, taking naps and eating lunch. Mary found a smooth, sunny rock, I found a nice soft bed on the grass with a handy log on which to elevate my feet for a nap, Marvin found a spot to his liking just across the river and the rest of the group settled on the sand, perched on rocks or selected spots of grass.

The other group having joined us and rested for a while, we decided to move on and hike a short distance down the river before returning to our cars. Before leaving the spot, though, we posed for a group photograph, taken by another hiker (part of a duo from Phoenix) who happened along at just the right time.

 Left to right: George Everman (kneeling), Miriam Sterling, Lila Wright, 
 Mary Gavan, Becky Fowski, Daisy Williams (kneeling), Marvin Alt 
 (rear), the author, Connie Woolard (kneeling), Bob Wakefield, Bill 
 Woolard  (kneeling), Name Withheld, Jan PreFontaine, Dolly Yapp 
 (kneeling), Anita Jackson (rear) and Cindy Covin
A short conversation with our guest photographer Chris Bailey and his wife Erica revealed that they were from Phoenix, hiked in the area frequently and had been to the ruins we were looking for. Chris even has a GPS track to the site that he is will willing to share. We traded e-mail addresses and he promised to send the track to me. He and Erica also indicated that they might join us for future hikes.

The rest of the hike was pleasant but uneventful. We crossed the river and hiked downstream about 0.2 miles along a well-worn path on the east bank before turning back. For the trip back to the cars we chose the easy route, directly up the wash. I think we had all had enough of the rocky mesa for one day.

The total hike was only 3.5 miles according to my GPS; the maximum elevation was 3467 feet and the total ascent was only 575 feet; however, the rocky ascent to the top of the mesa and the precarious climb back down provided some good exercise.




Saturday, February 4, 2012

Hwy 89A to Cornville Ditch


On Saturday, 4 February 2012, the Skyliners hiked from Hwy 89A at Page Springs Road to the Echo Canyon Winery and on to the old dam at Cornville Ditch. We met at the Cottonwood Safeway parking lot, drove about 7.5 miles north on 89A to Page Springs Road. Turning on Page springs Road, we proceeded about 0.28 miles to a parking area on the right. After parking we crossed Page Springs Road, hiked up Hidden Valley Road for about 0.32 miles and turned right onto Echo Canyon Road. We found ourselves to be high above Oak Creek, looking down at a stretch of the creek leading on to the settlement at the bend.

Oak Creek seen from Echo Canyon Road – photograph by Virginia Driscoll
For this hike we had permission to pass through private property owned by a friend of Mary’s, so were able to travel along Oak Creek to the old dam site; we thus continued on Echo Canyon Road past the winery and then cut across the private property to reach the creek. On our way, we actually walked through a covered patio attached to the landowner’s house and then were joined in the back yard by his cat for our morning snack. George, the cat’s favorite hiker, was having milk and cereal.

George sharing his snack with the cat – photograph by Virginia Driscoll
Upon reaching the creek we traveled along the bank to the old dam site. From there, rather than take the suggested route (the yellow track shown on the Google Earth map included on page xx13) back to the road, we chose to continue on along the creek bank and travel up a wash near Old Schoolhouse Road to return to Echo Canyon Road somewhere near the intersection with Hidden Canyon Road. George and I, lagging behind the main group, passed on by the wash, following an enticing cow path straight ahead, and wound up in the back yard of a private home. The house was located on Old Schoolhouse Road and, managing to avoid detection by the landowner, we passed quickly through the yard, took Old Schoolhouse a short distance to connect with Page Springs Road. We then contacted our hike leader by cellphone to let her know our status and returned to the parking lot by way of Page Springs Road.

Meanwhile, the main group of hikers had left the wash and climbed the slope on the other side; we could see them making their way along the ridge toward Echo Canyon Road as we hiked along Page springs Road.

We paused for a group photograph, taken by George using my camera and his small tripod, upon our return to the parking lot.

Left to right: Jim Manning, Lila Wright, George Everman (kneeling), 
Anita Jackson, Ellis Price, Mary Gavan, Kate Lockwood (kneeling), 
Donna Goodman, Virginia Driscoll (kneeling), Marvin alt, Colleen Maktenieks 
(kneeling), Bill Woolard, Connie Woolard, Daisy Williams (kneeling), 
Name Withheld (blue blurb), and Miriam Sterling – photograph by George 
with time delay
After returning home and uploading my GPS track to the computer, I found that we had crossed private property on the way down the creek to the wash and that the wash itself crosses a section of private property.

The easiest way to hike to the dam at Cornville ditch is to take Echo Canyon Road (red) to the green 4-wheel drive connector and use it to connect with the yellow path. The section of the yellow track that runs parallel to Echo Canyon Road is not really a trail; it is just the way we bushwhacked our way back on the April 2008 hike. However, this bushwhack route, following along the top of the ridge, offers great views of the area. The road may be easier, but the ridge is certainly worth the extra effort. Finally, I have included a small track (magenta on the map) that shows the route to an excellent viewpoint overlooking Hidden Valley.

The total distance for this hike was about 5 miles. That includes the side trip out to the Hidden Valley overlook. The total elevation change is approximately 550 feet.

The only information I found about what might be called “Cornville Ditch” by doing a quick online search was the following extract from a Wikipedia article:

The first settlers in the Lower Oak Creek area were Captain Andrew Jackson, a retired Confederate officer from Virginia, and his wife, Margaret, who arrived in the spring of 1876. Several other families including the Dickinsons, Munds, Copples, Pages, Mullhollands and Tiptons had followed by the autumn of that year or the spring of 1877. The settlers quickly built an irrigation ditch serving farms on the west side of Oak Creek.1

I was given the name Cornville Ditch by the, now deceased, leader of a 6 April 2008 hike to this site. Based on what she told me, I have since referred to the site as Cornville Ditch Dam. This hike was accordingly publicized as “Hwy 89A to Cornville Ditch.” However, while editing this book for me, Lila Wright, who grew up in the area, informed me that Cornville Ditch was located farther downstream in Cornville. She had no name for the ditch associated with the dam we visited, but did point out that it runs no farther than Dancing Apache (or D A) Ranch (east of the stream) and might be called “D A Ranch Ditch” or “Page Springs Ditch.”

I never really liked the name Cornville Ditch and neither Page Springs nor D A Ranch sound any better, so I shall henceforth refer to it as Dancing Apache Ditch. That will at the very least give it a more specific location.

Thus this becomes the hike from Hwy 89A to Dancing Apache Ditch.

The included map (below) included in this report shows the entire track (red line on the map) that I followed for this (4 February 2012) hike, including the part that crossed private property). I have also put together an alternative track that does not cross private property. This alternative route is composed of part of an April 2008 hike (yellow on the map), along with a small interpolation (green) along a 4-wheel drive road between Echo Canyon Road and the yellow track.



1 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cornville,_Arizona