Skyliner Hike Schedule

Trekabout Walks

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Lava River Cave


Nine Skyliner hikers visited Lava river Cave near Flagstaff on Saturday, 01 October 2011. We met at the Cottonwood Safeway Parking lot at 0700 and car pooled from there, traveling to Flagstaff via Hwy 89A and stopping at Coco’s for breakfast.

The following information is excerpted from Wikipedia:1

Lava River Cave is a lava tube cave in northern Arizona's Coconino National Forest. At approximately 0.75-mile (1.21 km) long, it is the longest cave of this kind known in Arizona. The cave was discovered by some lumbermen in 1915. The cave has also historically been referred to as "Government Cave" due to its location on the eastern edge of Government Prairie and southeast of Government Peak. Today, Lava River Cave is freely accessible to the general public.
Geologists believe the cave was formed sometime between 650,000 and 700,000 years ago when molten lava erupted from a volcanic vent in nearby Hart Prairie. The top, sides and bottom of the flow cooled and solidified, while lava in the middle flowed out, leaving a hollow space to form the cave. Examples of both ʻAʻā and Pāhoehoe basaltic lava can be seen in the cave.2

The cave is mostly dry, but due to the temperature change, there is a lot of condensation on the walls, ceiling and floor near the entrance, which makes it slippery. Temperatures inside are around 40°F (5°C) during the summer, and it is not uncommon for some of the rocks to be covered with ice. The cave can range in height from 30 feet (9.1 m) to only 2 to 3 feet (0.61 to 0.91 m). There are no light sources inside. It is recommended visitors have sturdy hiking boots, warm clothing, and multiple sources of light.

Litter and graffiti have been problems since the late 1960s. A major restoration effort was organized in May 1991. Almost all the litter was packed out and much of the graffiti removed at that time. Dogs should not be taken in the cave since there are only limited and very slow biological processes to render their urine and feces unobjectionable.

The entrance to the cave is around 14 miles (23 km) north of Flagstaff, Arizona. Being in Coconino National Forest, the cave is managed by the United States Forest Service. While the cave is open year round, the dirt roads which lead there may be impassable to cars in winter months or during wet weather conditions. There are no entrance or use fees.

I found the following descriptions for Lava types ʻAʻā and Pāhoehoe:

ʻAʻā (also spelled aa, aʻa, ʻaʻa, and a-aa; pronounced /ˈɑː.ɑː/ or /ˈɑːʔɑː/, from Hawaiian [ʔəˈʔaː][6] meaning "stony rough lava", but also to "burn" or "blaze") is one of three basic types of flow lava. ʻAʻā is basaltic lava characterized by a rough or rubbly surface composed of broken lava blocks called clinker.3

Pāhoehoe (also spelled pahoehoe, pronounced /pəˈhoʊ.iːˈhoʊ.iː/, from Hawaiian [paːˈhoweˈhowe],[8] meaning "smooth, unbroken lava") is basaltic lava that has a smooth, billowy, undulating, or ropy surface. These surface features are due to the movement of very fluid lava under a congealing surface crust.4

George had left Wally the tripod in the truck and there was no good place to set the camera for a time delay shot, so George, the photographer, is not in this group shot.

Left to right: Loren Pritzel, Virginia Driscoll, Ellis Price, Gordon Bice, 
Kwi Johnson (front row), Daisy Williams, Dolly Yapp (front row) 
and Lila Wright – photograph by George
Two signs were posted providing information about the cave. These are shown on the next page.

General information
Interpretive sign
Upon entering the cave, the first fifty yards or so slope steeply down and the way is very rocky. It would be very rough going in the winter when ice could be expected near the cave opening. As it were we found that the rocks were wet and slippery as we descended. However, we were soon past the steepest, rockiest part and the going was somewhat easier.

Gordon was leading the way and George was bringing up the rear to make sure no one was left behind. I was following close behind Gordon and whenever we noted that we could not count seven lights behind us we stopped and waited for the rest of the party to catch up. The below photograph was taken during one such stop and shows George and Daisy appearing out of the darkness. Until they were close enough to be illuminated by our lights all we could see was their flashlights, like two large fireflies drifting in the breeze.

Left to right: Dolly, Daisy and George (appearing out of the darkness) 
and Kwi
Somewhere along the way we came to a section with a relatively smooth floor that provided for somewhat easier walking. The floor surface here appeared similar to a very, very rough sidewalk with oversize gravel, or pre-hardened lumps of concrete, imbedded in the surface. I learned later that it was probably type ʻAʻā (meaning "stony rough lava", but also to "burn" or "blaze") lava, one of three basic types of flow lava. I took two photographs of the floor, one also showing some sort of fungus (or mold) growth.

Section of cave floor showing ʻAʻā lave (I think) 
Section of cave floor showing ʻAʻā lave (I think) along with mold 
– Gordon’s hand is seen at right
About ¼ mile from the entrance the cave splits, a smaller branch leading off to the right and reconnecting with the main branch a short distance ahead. We decided to take the smaller branch on the way in and then follow the larger branch on the return trip. Gordon is shown below entering a low section; about here I was wishing I had brought knee pads.

Gordon entering a section of the side branch with a very low overhead
After rejoining the main branch of the cave, we continued for approximately another ½ mile before we reached the end. Not quite convinced that this really was the end, George wormed his way on through a small opening to explore further.

George was determined to make sure we were indeed at the end of the cave
It really was the end for all practical purposes and George soon came slithering back out to rejoin us for a group photograph before we started back.

George returning from exploring further than the rest of us cared to go
Left to right: Loren Pritzel, Lila Wright, Gordon Bice, George Everman, 
Dolly Yapp, Ellis Price, Virginia Driscoll, Daisy Williams and Kwi Johnson 
– picture taken by a hiker from another group
We had reached our goal, but we still had the three-quarters of a mile trek back to the entrance before us, and we wanted to reach the surface before eating lunch, so without further ado we started back.

The trip back out of the cave was uneventful and we knew that the last of our group was safely out of the cave when George emerged from the opening (below).

We stopped for lunch under the Ponderosas and then headed back home. We took a different route back from the cave and I will describe both below.

George emerged from the cave mouth and we knew that we were all 
accounted for
To travel to the cave we used the directions provided by the Forest Service: “Drive 9 miles north of Flagstaff on US 180 and turn west (left) on FR 245 (at milepost 230). Continue 3 miles to FR171 and turn south 1 mile to where FR 171B turns left a short distance to Lava River Cave.”

On the return trip we took FR 171B back to FR 171 and then followed that road for 7.4 miles before turning left on the frontage road for I-40 at Camp Navajo. We followed this road for about 0.8 miles before taking an overpass over the freeway and then turning onto I-40 heading back to Flagstaff.

1 Lava River Cave (Arizona)
2 See next page for descriptions of ʻAʻā and Pāhoehoe basaltic lava
3 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lava

4 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lava

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