HS Canyon Trail by Way of Secret Canyon

I had read several reports of hikes on HS Canyon Trail and they all varied a bit as to how long the trail was. Additionally, I found one old trail map that showed HS Canyon Trail actually leaving HS Canyon and turning north along the foothills of Maroon Mountain to reconnect with Secret Canyon Trail near the intersection with David Miller Trail. But one thing the reports all seemed to agree on was that HS Canyon Trail turned off of Secret Canyon Trail about 0.7 miles from Forest Road 152.

Four of us set out on 22 April 2015 to determine for ourselves just where the trail would lead us. We drove from Cottonwood to Sedona on Hwy 89A, turned left onto Dry Creek Road and continued to the junction with Forest Road 152, also known as Vultee Arch Road (or on some maps, including Google Earth, Dry Creek Road). Personally, I think the road is renamed every few years just to confuse people.

A paved parking area and restrooms are provided at the start of FR 152 and there the pavement ends; the next 3.5 miles of road to the Secret Canyon Trailhead is very rough and should only be attempted in high-clearance, 4-wheel drive vehicles. To emphasize that point, the Forest Service has embedded a row of rocks across the road at its very beginning. The rocks are of sufficient height as to discourage drivers of low-clearance vehicles from even attempting to go further. We had come prepared with high clearance vehicles, but one was a rear-wheel drive pickup that we had to park along the way. We all just piled into the 4-wheel drive vehicle for the rest of the trip to the Secret Canyon Trailhead.

A short 50-yard driveway leads from FR 152 to the trailhead parking area. There is room for one vehicle to park alongside the forest road and, arriving at 0820, we were early enough to park there (right)

We four hikers (Lila Wright, Karl Sink, Phil Sullivan and the author) donned our packs and walked the short distance to the trailhead.

The trail information shown here (left) was extracted from a Forest Service sign posted in a prominent location at the trailhead. The trailhead is located on the southeast side of Dry Creek and one crosses the almost always dry creek to travel northwest on Secret Canyon Trail.

On the far bank stands a wooden sign (right), this is in addition to the rusty old iron sign that has long marked the start of Secret Canyon Trail. I guess someone decided to reassure those people who might be looking for HS Canyon Trail that they were headed in the right direction.

We followed Secret Canyon Trail through a forest of manzanita, juniper and oak for 0.7 miles, following along the dry creekbed that marked the bottom of the canyon, before we came to the HS Canyon Trail turnoff (left). The trail here was open, very distinct and easy to hike as we entered the mouth of HS Canyon and started a gentle climb. Gradually the manzanitas thinned in favor of more substantial trees, primarily oaks as seen below (below).

HS Canyon Trail winding its way up the canyon between the oaks

We expected to see a lot flowers on this late April day and were not disappointed. Although, strictly speaking, one of the most unusual plants we found was not technically a flower but rather a red miners lettuce. This was soon followed by an isolated western wallflower.

Red miners lettuce

Western Wallflower

Most of the way up the trail the wash at the bottom of the canyon was close on our right and, as we approached the point where my old map had said the trail turned right to follow along the foothills of Maroon Mountain, I kept close watch for anything which might suggest a trail leading in that direction. I saw nothing, so we continued on up the canyon heading toward Maroon Mountain.

Larkspur 

Lupine

Other flowers seen along the way included a larkspur and a lupine.

Eventually we crossed the wash and continued upstream along the other side. The trail now became a bit rougher and a little less distinct but still easy to follow. We also saw signs of recent trail maintenance such as trimmed branches and stacked rock cairns. The flowers, meanwhile, became more prolific.

Mixed bed of penstemons and larkspurs 

We saw a mixed bed of penstemons and larkspurs (left) and a western wallflower of a different shade of yellow (right) stopped for a snack along the way at a small open area, covered with a variety of flowers, just at the end of the recently maintained portion of the trail.

Larkspur, penstemon and western wallflower; Phil Sullivan at upper left

Just ahead we came to a rock cairn (right) that marked the end of any recent trail maintenance. At the cairn, we entered the wash and hiked along the dry streambed; an occasional small cairn indicated that others had been this way before us.

For most of the distance along here the bed of the wash was grass-covered and brush free; we encountered only the occasional large rock to navigate around or climb over. All in all it was relatively easy going. The photograph (left) shows two of the large rocks along with an informal cairn placed on top of one of them.

Lila is shown here (right) as she makes her way up a relatively clear stretch of the streambed. Note the flowers in the foreground of the photograph. We found larkspur and western wallflower all along here. Apparently, the creekbed retained just enough moisture to allow them to proliferate.

Eventually, however, we came to an area that was filled with a jumble of dead brush and living undergrowth. It was obvious that in order to continue we would need to leave the wash. There, to reinforce our decision to leave the wash, we found another small cairn (left) pointing the way.

After leaving the wash at the cairn, we found a few additional clues along the way in the form of an occasional very ancient tree trimming. There were also short sections of trail that could have been the result of human passage but were more likely made by animals. And soon enough we came to a spot near the head of what now appeared to be a box canyon ending at the eastern slope of Maroon Mountain. We could see what might have been a way to go a little farther by passing to the right under the overhanging cliff shown below but it looked awfully difficult and would have turned an otherwise pleasant hike into a chore.

Overhanging cliff near the end of HS Canyon

On the way back down the trail we noted a couple of flowering plants that we had missed on the way up.

New Mexico raspberry Cliffs fendlerbush

A New Mexico raspberry is shown here (left) along with a Cliffs fendlerbush (right).

The best viewpoint on this hike is located on a manzanita-covered hill, about a mile above the junction with Secret Canyon Trail.

Looking generally north from the viewpoint

Looking northeast from the viewpoint

The rest of the hike was an easy 1.7-mile trek along a gently downsloping trail and we were soon back at the Secret Canyon Trailhead.

I measured the round trip hike as being 5.0 miles. The maximum elevation was 5433 feet and the total ascent was 830 feet.

Our track is shown in red on the included map (next page).

Scouting Grapevine Gulch Trail

I had identified Grapevine Gulch Trail as being a relatively short hike, 2.7 miles one way, trail that could easily be hiked by the Skyliners as a 5.4-mile round trip hike. The trail is located in Grapevine Gulch on the Prescott Valley side of Mingus Mountain and the best way to reach the trail from Cottonwood would be to drive south across Mingus Mountain on Hwy 89A and then follow Powerline road, a dirt road, along the foot of the mountain to Grapevine Well which marks the trailhead.

It was a sunny day when Lila Wright, Karl Sink and the author set out early in the morning of 18 February 2015 to explore the trail. Although there were only the three of us and we could have ridden in one vehicle we chose to take two because the dirt road we would follow was unfamiliar to us. The two vehicles were a 4-wheel drive pickup and a rear-wheel drive pickup. This would enable us to determine whether 4-wheel drive was necessary and also provide a measure of safety in the event of a breakdown in a remote area.

From the Cottonwood Safeway parking lot it was 21.3 miles across the mountain to the turnoff onto Forest Road 643 (Powerline Road). The first 0.9 miles of FR 643, to the junction with FR 151, was heavily traveled and maintained in excellent condition. However, from that point on, the going became pretty rough in places as the road wound its way over and around hills and across deep washes while generally following the power line. I was happy to be driving a 4-wheeler. On the other hand, Karl managed to follow all the way with his rear-wheel drive vehicle. In the final analysis, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is highly desirable and a high-clearance vehicle is a necessity.

After another 4.8 miles, 6.1 miles from Hwy 89A and a short distance after FR 643 turned sharply east, we came to an intersection with FR 9002V. Forest Road 643 turned right and continued south at this point, but we continued straight ahead on FR 9002V until it turned left and headed north. This is the Grapevine Gulch Trailhead, but we drove straight ahead for another 0.1 mile to park at Grapevine Well.

The map (right) shows the route (see dark yellow track) we took along Powerline Road (FR 643) and FR 9002V to Grapevine gulch Trailhead.

The map insert (left) details the area from the FR 643/9002V junction to the trailhead and also shows Grapevine Well.

As noted, we actually drove another 0.1 mile past what we took to be the official Grapevine Gulch Trailhead. There, just short of the well, we came to a gated fence (below) and parked outside the gate to start our hike.

On the other side of the fence the trail follows an old road, see the faint track just to the left of the sign, that leads up the slope and follows along the hillside before returning to the bottom of the gulch. After crossing the fence, we paused for a few minutes to look around at Grapevine Well and its associated windmill and water tank.

Lila and Karl at Grapevine Well

The roughest and steepest part of the trail was the short section of old road that climbed up the hillside, but it was a short stretch of the trail. When we reached the high point on the hill, just before dipping back to the bottom of the gulch, we could see large rock outcroppings near the streambed below; this was undoubtedly the reason that the road builders had chosen the hillside in that area. On the other hand, a cow trail did follow along the bottom of the gulch and we could have followed that instead of the old roadbed.

In any case we were soon enough back in the bottom of the gulch, following the remains of the old road as it wound its way back and forth across the streambed. At the time of our hike the streambed was bone dry for most of the way, so we had no problem crossing it. A section of the streambed, about 0.9 miles from the trailhead, with the old road shown running along its left bank is shown below.

Grapevine Gulch dry streambed with trail (old road) shown at left

About 1.4 miles from the trailhead we came to the remains of an old mine. The only reference I could find to a mine at this location identified it as a “Cobalt shaft; Cobalt prospect; Walker prospect [?])¹” The source also indicates that it is a narrow (knife edge to 14 inches wide), 15-foot vein deposit of partly oxidized, altered gabbro (intrusive igneous rocks) containing relics of sulfide, possibly cobaltiferous arsenopyrite.

Although all we saw was the tailings pile alongside the streambed, the source said the workings included “a 28 foot long opencut leading to an 18 foot long adit (horizontal or nearly horizontal entrance to a mine). A 20 foot winze (minor connection between two levels in an underground mine) was sunk at the portal²”.

Cement Spring is located near the old prospect mine. I had seen the name on the map and wondered how it got its name. One look at the spring (right) answered that question. Someone, probably the miners, had dug the spring out and reinforced the walls with rocks cemented together. It was now more a shallow well than a spring. Although no water entered the streambed at this point, there was water in the spring.

From Cement Spring, the Forest Service map indicated that the trail continued for another 1.2 miles and ended at Trap Spring. When we arrived there, we did find a mere trickle of water in the streambed as shown in the below photograph. Contrary to the map, the trail continued on past the spring and, as it appeared to be well used and easy to hike, we decided to continue on up the gulch.

A trickle of water in the stream; trail continuing up the gulch (right)

About 0.2 miles above Trap Spring a trail branched off to the right, leading up a side wash to the northeast. We continued along the trail in Grapevine Gulch, heading directly north, for another 0.5 miles before deciding to turn back. The trail was still clear and easy to hike, sloping gently as it made its way up the gulch, and we wondered who had extended it. I later determined that the extension was the work of mountain bikers. The extension crosses the ridge ahead, follows Ash Creek for a distance and then returns to Grapevine Gulch Trail by way of the fork we had noted just above Trap Spring.

We stopped along the way for a leisurely lunch but still found ourselves approaching the end of our hike early in the afternoon. The below photograph, looking across Prescott Valley from the mouth of the gulch, was taken near the end of the hike. The Grapevine Well Windmill is located just beyond the rock formation shown right of center. Although the road looks good here, it is very rough ahead.

Looking across Prescott Valley; top of windmill visible above the rock formation

After finishing the hike, we decided that we would continue south on Powerline Road to Hwy 169 for the return home. That idea didn't work because the road is closed at a locked gate a short distance ahead. Finding ourselves stymied in that plan, we decided that we would instead go west from Powerline Road, following a road that we were sure would take us to Fain Road. We would then follow Fain Road north to Hwy 89A. Unfortunately, we soon came to another locked gate. This closure was emphasized with a dead coyote hung on either side of the gate. We weren't sure but

thought that might be a message for trespassers. One of the coyotes is shown here (left).

We gave up on all alternatives and returned home the way we had come.

After uploading my GPS track, I measured the round trip hike as being 6.4 miles. The maximum elevation was 6132 feet and the total ascent was 891 feet.

Our track is shown in red on the included map (next page). The purple track is the bike trail that loops across the ridge, down Ash Creek and then back across to rejoin Grapevine Gulch Trail above Trap Spring.

1 Cobalt shaft; Cobalt prospect; Walker prospect [?])

2 Ibid